californiana in madrid

Thanksgiving

2011-12-03T11:40:00.011+01:00

I can't remember if Thanksgiving has always been one of my favorite holidays, or it has become as such in the last few years of being away from home and in a country that (of course) does not celebrate it. Regardless, with my group of American "family" here, each year we are reminded that even while away from home we can be surrounded by those who share in the same customs and traditions as us. This year, Markel and I hosted Thanksgiving at our home along with a dear friend who offered her expertise and skill in brining and cooking turkey (who was appropriately deemed Tammy Lynn/Faye/Jo/Sue... the turkey's always got to have a name!). Friends from around the states and Spain brought lots of traditional (and not-so-traditional) dishes that warmed our bellies - Mama's Mac & Cheese, green bean casserole, scorpionfish cake, cornbread, pumpkin pie, carrotcake, apple pie, broccoli casserole, sweet potato fries, garlic mashed potatoes, ham and chicken croquetas, bleu cheese and walnut croquetas, homemade gravy, and deviled eggs. Yummy!

In class, we also celebrated ... granted my little ones probably had no idea why I was talking about funny-looking people in hats and indians (most chose to think I was talking about cowboys and indians) and turkeys (which most still think I was talking about chickens). With my three year olds, I decided just to read a story about Thanksgiving. Knowing that it would be a complicated task, I laughed to myself and my co-teacher when the story finished and said, "I would just love to know what the heck they think I just told a story about!" and she agreed, asking in Spanish, "What was Beth's story about?" They started off strong - some señores got on a boat, said "Bye Bye" and went on the sea. Then, sweet little Jimena got really excited, "Y después, se cayó el barco! Y vinieron muchos tiburones! Comieron a todos!" No, Jimena, the boat did NOT sink and sharks did NOT eat the Pilgrims.

The four years understood the story better; then we made turkeys with our hands. Some worked on color-by-number corn (yes, I taught them all the staples on the dinner table...) and small groups painted their hands and made turkeys with me. Only one class caused chaos in the bathroom, smearing their brown painted hands all over the white tile walls. When the director walked by, she had to cover her smile behind her hand and whisper to the teacher that it was actually pretty funny... Here are some of the star products that resulted from four year Spanish kids making turkeys/chickens.

The five years and I had a deeper discussion of Thanksgiving, and I taught them about being with family and eating together at the dinner table. We say "Thank you" for things - our house, not being sick, food, friends, happiness. We talked about different foods we eat at Thanksgiving - turkey, corn, potatoes, cranberries (I decided not to describe cranberry SAUCE, just cranberries... that was hard enough!) and pumpkin pie. Each class "set their Thanksgiving table" with their placemat, filled with Thanksgiving foods. I think everyone understood, except for one child who drew a picture of two friends on her plate. No, Carlota, we do NOT eat friends on Thanksgiving. Here are some star works the lil' guys came up with:

otoño

2011-10-07T18:30:00.006+02:00

Summer has overstayed its welcome here in Madrid, with digits into the 80s and almost 90s throughout September. But, today, amidst wind and a chilly breeze, I think finally autumn has arrived!

Although Madrid doesn't quite embrace otoño like someone coming from the east coast of the USA might, it's a time I love. I like to bake - and bake a lot - of pumpkin, spicy, and warm treats. While Markel grows his winter coat on his face, I choose to bust out soup recipes, my favorite pumpkin muffin recipe, and the IKEA candles scented with spicy holiday flare. My school seems to be on board - there's the largest white pumpkin squash decorating the cafeteria (perhaps a future lunch pureé?). Today my five year olds and I brainstormed all that happens in October - they must have inspired me with their responses of "rain," "cold," "leaves," and "Halloween!"

As Halloween nears, know that I will doing my best to ring in otoño and all it has to offer - scary outfits (any thrilling, cheap, easy costume ideas?), fun crafts (watch out Martha!), delicious snacks, boots and scarves.

summer camp

2011-08-09T18:42:00.016+02:00

While I feel for the little ones who are sent away to English camp, while their peers go to sports camp, travel abroad or sit in the comfort of their own homes, I am glad that the Spanish craze for learning English provides me with a guaranteed paycheck each July.

Allow me to clarify the meaning of a Spanish English summer camp. Kids sent away with native English teachers and monitors (i.e. camp counselors). At some camps, the teacher and the monitor is the came person, meaning a 24 hour shift for potentially two or three weeks straight. No thank you. I opted for a camp that has separate teaching and 'monitoring' positions. That means, I teach the English, someone else plays and takes care of them outside the classroom. It has its perks, definitely, only having teaching responsibility, but it loses a bit of the 'camp' feeling when you aren't the one singing 'Bazooka bubble gum' or 'Kookaburra' or other camp favorites.

This year, I spent two weeks at a day camp right outside of Madrid, where I could sleep at home and commute each day with a relatively normal work schedule. The last two weeks I worked outside of Madrid at a residential camp, feeling more like a child at an overnight camp - sharing a bedroom with four to six other girls, eating horrible camp food (I mean, really... Fried night? Fake potato puree, calamari, croquettes, fish sticks and bread?) in a large cafeteria with the campers and listening to camp songs and the sound of arrows flying passed the window during archery. Not a bad way to earn some cash over vacation, but eagerly awaiting the day where a solid teacher's pay includes a paid vacation so that I won't have to teach English to unmotivated, tired and hot little kids. Regardless, the kids were sweet (ages 3 to 6 the first fortnight, 6 to 8 the second) and provided some good laughs and fun memories for summer camp 2011.

Alvaro was a great student, but he had a constantly-sad look glued on his face. I'm not the only one who noticed it, other teachers mentioned him when visiting my class. So, when he came up and told me he was done (and we had only just begun), he said, "Y ahora que hago?" (Now what do I do?) I, knowing full well I work with preschool children and sometimes make inappropriate comments to keep myself sane, knowing they won't understand, responded, "Alvaro! Smile!" He said, "Ok", turned around, went back to his seat. What on earth did he think I just said to him? I thought. Oh well, he'll be back shortly. And when he came back, he showed me his work. After a short chuckle to myself, I patted him, shot him a smile, and said, "Perfect!"
(Alvaro Esmail = Alvaro! Smile!)

Maybe being goth is in the genes. This picture (don't even ask me what the heck is in his hand) was done by a little boy who had previously asked me how to say calavera and diablo in English. I fell for calavera, telling him we say "skull." Note the skull on his shirt in the picture. When he asked me about diablo, I decided to tell him to go sit down. (diablo = devil)

The traffic light and our Star Car. You behave, you stay on green. You mishave, move to yellow (with a chance of moving back to green). Bad day, go to red and no getting to go back to green till the next day. At the end of the day, kids on green get a sticker for their star.

What animals live in the forest? Apparently cracked-out bunnies do.

So, apparently, it's a common mistake for pre-school and younger elementary school children to write backwards. I always get teased for having written "HTEB" for my name... Looks like I'm not the only one!

After reading a cute story called "Mr Gumpy's Outing", the children decorated our own image of the characters in the story. (I especially like the green cat, the black-faced/white-limbed girl, and the multi-colored dog)

"Froggy Gets Dressed." We made a clothesline with all the clothes and more that Froggy wears to go outside and play in the snow. You know they got the lesson well when I asked them if they had finished coloring Froggy's gloves and they said, "No! Not gloves! Mittens!" And, of course, they were right. I drilled it into them the difference between gloves and mittens (fingers, no fingers). It worked! They remembered!

Overheard conversation

Little girl (6) and little boy (6) arguing in Spanish over a word in English.

"Bitch!" says LG

"No, BEACH." says LB

"No, not beach, BITCH!" says LG

Enter teacher (assuming that they could not possibly know the word bitch at age 6) "What's the matter? What happened? What's bitch?"

LG: "A que bitch quiere decir melecoton en ingles?" (Bitch means 'peach' in English, huh?)

I was right. They still have no idea.

First day conversation

Setting: at a catholic seminary school (i.e. the Virgin and Jesus on the cross are all over the place. In my classroom, there was a huge statue of Mary and a photo nearby)

Boys arguing.

LB1: "Teacher! (in Spanish) I said God is Jesus' dad and he said Jesus is God's dad. I'm right, right?"

me: "Yeah, sure." (Was I really supposed to go into the Holy Trinity concept in English with two five year old boys? Don't think so.)

Apple Tree Project. Each child made their apple - in our class, they wrote about themselves and then presented it and hung the apple on the tree.

Trip to the farm.

Looking at the hamster.

LG: "Teacher, I'm sad."

me: "Why? What's wrong?"

LG: "Es que, (all in Spanish) looking at this hamster makes me remember my hamster that died." (sad, pouty face wanting a hug for comfort)

me: "When did your hamster die?"

LG: "Three years ago."

The residential camp was in this setting. Beautiful, right?

2011-07-24T10:01:00.002+02:00

Went to the movies last night to see Woody Allen's "Midnight in Paris." Although I did enjoy the film and its various 1920s characters including Salvador Dalí (Adrien Brody) and Ernest Hemmingway (Cory Stoll), it is not the purpose of this entry. I must comment on a cultural movie-going custom that I entirely appreciate about Spain (and surely many other places abide to this ritual as well). When the films comes to a close, and the credits stream across the screen, people do not stand up and exit the theatre. They do not yet chat with their friends or partners about their perspective. They wait. They sit, quiet and still as they were throughout the entire film. They watch the names of the artists, actors and actresses, directors, producers, musicians, writers, and all others who helped make the film scroll in front of them. Not only is the viewing of the movie important, but recognizing the people, songs, and places that went into making it are equally significant, people sit and wait until the last credit flashes before them. It's a custom that I've come to love, and hope to never lose.

a bit of an escape

2011-06-23T13:04:00.005+02:00

As el verano hits, the sun and heat on the Spanish plateau set in and we all need un poquito of an escape...

Our nuevo compañero de piso Alex, Markel and I ventured to Segovia for an afternoon of Roman ruins and delicious Spanish delights. After a long night of eating and dancing with my co-workers the previous evening, the viaje to higher elevation was much needed. We saw the Roman aqueducts, the enchanting alcázar that inspired Disney's castle, and the plaza mayor that a large ornate cathedral overlooks. To eat the afternoon, we ate huevos revueltos with chorizo and potatoes... such a classic, greasy Spanish dish that I allow myself every now and again!The following morning, a small grupo of us went north again to Cercedilla to take a dip in the piscinas naturales. Although they didn't look at all natural (in fact, looked much more like actually pools than springs that I was expecting), the water was definitely fresh and without chemicals. After getting a bit lost upon arrival, we met with friends and had a picnic on site. I love Spanish picnics... there was pollo empanado (breaded chicken), tortilla española, some Lambrusco (sparkling rosé wine), a quiche lorraine (ham and cheese), and our all-American sub-sandwiches with avocado and turkey. Mmmmm, what a meal perfecto before resting in and alongside the pool....

the last joy ride

2011-05-18T23:30:00.004+02:00

Dreams can sometimes be dashed when people let you down...

I try to assume the best in humanity and stay positive amidst worldly troubles. So, when I show up to where I last left my bike, twice-chained and right in front of the primary school I work at, and it's not there. . . . I struggle.

I struggle to find that goodness and hope that I have in humanity. I try not to blame the ¿¡$?! who stole it, try to hope that that person needed it more than me, and try to remember that this act is not a representation of all that exists in the world.

So, as I swallow my sadness and dashed dreams, I toast my cup of cheap red wine to the once-great bike that filled my last year with great rides in a great city. Cheers to you, bike. It was a joyous ride.

first official short film

2011-04-26T23:56:00.004+02:00

A grand piece of work I am honored to have helped create with my oh-so-talented co-worker Aaron. Watch and enjoy!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3sgIxWt2cDk

Ode to bikes

2011-01-20T20:34:00.004+01:00

"The bicycle, the bicycle surely, should always be the vehicle of
novelists and poets."
-- Christopher Morley

On&On

2011-01-16T09:58:00.003+01:00

A contemporary, question-raising exposition called On&On can be found at la Casa Encendida. Walking in unexpectedly, I was awed by the first piece of hanging strawberries, fruitflies, and a taxodermy crow swooping down. A moment frozen in time of the black predator among a field of strawberries, fighting for a delicious feast of fruit and flies.
The next piece is a web of black yarn covering the walls and covering a burnt piano and burnt chairs. Slightly creepy, yet inviting. We wanted to just crawl through the entangled web. Our question: Is the web organized in a specific design or simply inspired at the moment of creation?
Growing technology. Pink mold-like fungus grows all over laptops, cell phones, iPods, and office tools like notepads, coffee and water. It's hot pink color and the crystal-like structure forms strange growths over all the technology. Even in the stale coffee, a greenish mold that one could find in their own home started to appear. Placed in a black room with low lighting gave me the sensation that we had been transplanted in the depths of deep seas with neon corals or algaes.
My favorite piece was a room filled with little birds, small Mandarin diamond birds with bright orange beaks. They fluttered around the room landing freely on guitars, symbols, and other musical instruments creating a musical piece of their own. Random sounds begun by the hopping, pecking, and movement of the little creatures. (more info on the artists and idea: http://www.afuegolento.com/noticias/cocina/noticia/9073/on&on/exposicion/lo/efimero/la/casa/encendida/madrid)

seasons greetings

2010-12-22T18:11:00.004+01:00

It's been a long time since my last entry, and I've been racking my mind to find the interesting details that could capture the audience...
Last week was my final week of school before heading back to California for the holidays. The school, while living in a country that also celebrates Christmas, has a mixed display of the celebration. While singing traditional carols like "Deck the Halls" and "Jingle Bell Rock," both the carols themselves as well as the Christmas crafts turn into little assembly line creations stripped of originality and fun. The children were asked to sing their carols 45 minutes straight in order to perfect it for the last day of school where the levels are singing together in a final presentation. I will not be there to witness the final product, but I can assure you that there are at least four 11 year old boys in class 6C who can rock "Deck the Halls," even at the highest "fa la-la, la-la-la, la-la-la-la" notes.

In my nursery school hours, we spent our time singing "Santa Claus is coming to town" and making popsicle stick snowmen as well as reading the Nutcracker. The kids loved it, were jolly and merry. They caught the holiday spirit whether they wanted to or not! (my guess is that they wanted to, though) And to put the frosting on the Christmas cookies, my American counterpart and I were showered in hugs, kisses and Christmas greetings from the 3, 4, and 5 year olds before heading out across the seas. If I don't end up long-term in Spain, I will always crave all the love that the little Spanish kids happily give away (and the adults happily accept!).

Now we're back on the other side of the pond, enjoying the "sunny California" rain. Our stockings are hung, the crochetted nativity is on the mantel and the ornaments adorn the tree. This week's agenda guarantees joyous celebrations: gingerbread cookie houses and trains, wine tasting, turkey dinner, and family game night. While little Spanish tot love is rewarding, there is nothing like being cozy and warm in our Chico abode.

"death" and charter schools

2010-10-12T11:06:00.005+02:00

A new school year is in high gear, with new challenges and goals to set and later obtain.

I've started the new school year at a charter school in southern Madrid working with over 800 students, half of which are 5 and under. A good friend of mine and I have been fortunate enough to be able to wander into each pre-school classroom together, teaching shapes, colors, school supplies and songs to the niños.

The first week or two also included teaching my name, which for some reason, has been a complex confusion for many of them. Although I recognize that the name Beth is a rarity in Spanish culture (except for the Spanish American Idol's catalunyan sensation Beth), the sounds are all found in Spanish letters. Although frequently misspelt (Vez, Bez, etc.), I wasn't expecting such a variety of repetitions of my name that ranged from "Bot!" "Mot!" "Pa!" "Bath!" and one of my favorites "Death!" Then there were the clearly unique kids who racked their little brains and came up with "Cereza!" (cherry in Spanish) or "Laura!" (the name of the other English teacher with me). Yet, there was a silver lining when one brilliant girl, of the 400 little ones, quickly laughed and said, "Ja ja ja, Beth, como otra VEZ!" ("Beth, like another TIME"; vez in Spanish means time and is pronounced just like my name)

Noche en Blanco 2010

2010-09-12T21:55:00.003+02:00

Thousands of beach balls flinging across the plaza in front of my house. A giant jungle gym made of reusable material on the main drag. Upside down streetlights. Rap music and jazz and cool Chinese sounds drifting through everyone's ears. Hordes of people walking through closed-off streets. And me and Cassie, biking and rollerblading down the Castellana.

Noche en Blanco presented itself well this year, with much to see and do. The all-night art party was amazing this year. Just two years ago, Markel and I celebrated our official engagement at this event, and now it has repeated itself in a new, fresh way. A handy map with numbers and letters describing the evening's free street activities helped guide us through the city. No museum tours or exhibitions this year for us, but we took avantage of the beautiful weather and walked through the nightlife. Meeting at eight in Plaza Colón (Chris Colubus), Cassie and I watched as policemen closed off the main thoroughway to cars. She strapped on her rollerblades and I snapped on my helmet, and we set off downhill toward Plaza Atocha. Rolling through major roundabouts and beautiful buildings was exhilarating!
We continued our stroll, sans bike and blades, through Huertas, stopping to take photos and participate in a graffiti mural wall hosted by Oxfam International. We tagged "Food is not a privilege" and "Help one another" to support the message of awareness of world poverty. First time holding a spray paint can, and needless to say, very enjoyable! Winding our way through Sol and then through Gran Vía, we made ourselves back to my plaza where since earlier that morning they'd been blowing up thousands of beach balls for the evening's ball bash. Entering the plaza was near impossible, let alone to get to my door, but through the crowd and sounds of beach balls flying left and right I was able to find my way in. A night to celebrate, a night to enjoy, and a night to get out.... See live entertainment in the streets, partake in hands-on art, and remind ourselves why we love Spain so.

Paellas 2010

2010-07-28T09:34:00.011+02:00

A group of twenty- and thirty-somethings gathered to organize their part of an annual tradition that they've celebrated for the past 15 years or so. Paellas.

Planning started over a month ago, with one friend being in charge of "marking the territory" with a rope between trees to reserve the spot. It is ritual that is respected between all groups that go early to rope off their place. No one takes your spot and you can be assured it will still be marked and saved when you arrive for the event. Markel's friends, known as Ñikoñako, collected 20 euros from each member of the group and went shopping for Spanish paella ingredients, drinks, bread, and meat. Three or four friends took iniciative to head up the logistics - from making the broth to use on the paella to finding the rope and tarps that would serve as walls

around our abode for the day.

Saturday afternoon a small group met on-site to set up: Markel wacked the weeds away, Javier and Manolo raked, and Tibu and Iker started to put up the tarps surrounding our space. A pit was dug out for the fire. I photographed the process.

On Sunday, the day of the event, loads of groups of friends met at their reserved space to start the festivities. Each group of friends, most with their own group name, decorated and organized their space similarly - fence or tarp surrounded, canopy overhead, music blaring, towels and blankets covering the floor, card games, and lots to eat and drink.

People put on their traditional garbs and dressed as

arantzale or "sea(wo)men." I put on my pololos (traditional white underpants) and navy skirt along with a pañuelo around my neck. As appetizers we had some homemade tortillas made with crab, ham & cheese, and chorizo. Erika, Gorka, Igor and Markel made a delicious seafood paella with mussels, shrimp, prawns, crawfish, clams, and calamari. Of course, I opted out of the majority of the delicacies, but enjoyed a shrimp or two. In the later afternoon, we also grilled some pork, bacon, chicken kebabs, and spiced pork kebabs. An afternoon filled with lots of meat and washed down with sangría made on site.

el afilador

2010-06-13T13:49:00.006+02:00

Once or twice a week, we can hear a high-pitched whistling that fills the plaza. It isn't hidden by the children's laughter or the dozens of dogs' barking; just a faint sound that reminds you that the afilador present. I've never seen him through the tree tops, but I always enjoy his presence. I've been told he is an older guy, riding a scooter.

a bit of history

2010-06-12T17:00:00.003+02:00

La Dama de Elche graced us with her presence today at Madrid's Achaeological Museum. Markel and I walked through millenia from pre-historic dinosaurs to gaudy glass artware from the 18th century.

The gem of the museum is a piece of stone that was found at the end of the 19th century in a town called Elche near Alicante. It dates back to the 5th century B.C. She stands regal between two other dames that have similar, yet less intricate, design.

The Dama and her counterparts were also around the corner from my personal favorite Fall of the Evil Angels. It is comprised of small demonic angels descending from judgment to hell, with sour, anguished faces. Numerous tiny falling angels made of marble, twisting and turning as they fall. This piece dates to the 18th century. (http://www.flickr.com/photos/panaderocanonistas/4516229140/sizes/l/)

a french stroll

2010-04-05T20:54:00.006+02:00

A relaxing week exploring the French Riviera, the ritzy Monte Carlo, the Italian coast, and the hilly green Provence region.

We discovered that "Nice is nice" is nothing but true. Our friend Kris hosted us in the antique "palace" of an apartment that his great-aunt has rented out to him. Within a short walk from the city center, we strolled down to the beach, ate Mediterranean cuisine (gnocchis, delicious salads, daube meat stew, and lots and lots of wine), hiked to catch a view of the castle that sits on the cliff overlooking the Côte d'azur. The Blue Coast is nothing short of a rich blue color unlike any you've seen - except for the faded brown spot where sewage had seeped out only a few days before.
Markel, Shannon, and I caught a train into Monaco to meet Kris and our friend from Madrid Dominique whose mother owns an Italian restaurant in the city. Filling up on the exquisite risotto and meat au poivre and catching a bit of sunshine on the terrace started our afternoon perfectly. Later with full bellies and lots of Vitamin D we wandered the streets of one of the wealthiest cities in the world. The following day the Toyota Yaris also carried us across the French border into Sanremo, Italy where we relived a similar experience on a terrace near the coast. Mussels and lobster laid on the plates in front of me, neither of which I dared to try.
The Provence region in southeastern France is nothing short of breathtaking. Green rolling hills lined with vineyards and small beige cottages and houses with blue shutters zoomed past us as we winded along the curving highway. Kris showed us a marvelous time with good eats at Grandma's house and with his friends, a challenging hike to see two amazing waterfalls falling over rocky cliffs, a short drive to see a lake that was filled with pristine green-blue glacier run-off water that flowed in from a nearby gorge, and a trip to meet his friend whose family owns a honey farm.
By the end of the week, we had forgotten the stress of work, the screams and the tears of children, and the busy bustling city life... A short pause in the quickness of our lives.

Happy Father's Day

2010-03-19T16:49:00.002+01:00

National holiday in Spain today. One of the first holidays that all schools - including mine - have taken off, thereby giving a day of rest to their staff. Happy Father's Day, Spain!

I'm exhausted. Four year olds keep me constantly busy for five hours a day, only to be followed by three more hours of back-to-back classes with antsy five and six year olds, energetic seven and eight year olds, and way cool nine to eleven year olds. I'm searching for ways to re-motivate myself as an entire 12-week trimester stills lays ahead.

For now, I will seek refuge in the sun just peeking through the clouds over our beautiful Plaza Dos de Mayo, the smell of freshly baked banana bread, the full stomach from a delicious bowl of lentils, and the realization that's it's only Friday and two more days of weekend await...

2010-03-07T11:59:00.000+01:00

my new ride

"Multiculturism" in Spain

2010-01-18T22:30:00.004+01:00

This week is "Multicultural Week" at the nursery school. When I heard, I immediately got nervous. Instead of fond memories from my high school's multicultural week (Hmong dancers in tradition dress, a food fair with Filipino lumpia, Mexican tacos, learning new sports and bits of different languages), I have been shock and awed by the ideas for the week.

First, the school decided that multiculturism means "triculturism" - Chinese, African and, of course, Spanish. Not only is China a country and Africa a continent, the week has apparently been created to perpetuate the stereotypes that exist - that people who have any Asian ancestry or are black are not Spanish, but from other countries, and that Chinese means slanted eyes and dragons and African means drums. In one conversation, I was asked if I would be dressing up on Friday. Dressing up as what? What does that mean? Do I really paint my face black? I don't think so...

To top it off, the conversation was continued and my co-teacher began describing the children's costumes. Each class has one culture (between Spanish, Chinese, or African of course) and will be dressing up as that culture. Our class will be "Chinese" and be painting their faces white and lips red, cheeks red, and adding eye make-up to make them "slanted." I was asked if I had additional ideas and I stared, wide-eyed and speechless. I informed my teacher that I didn't understand the lesson this would teach and that in my experience, it wouldn't be PC to do something similar in the States.

I'll add another tidbit that plastered walls and buildings during the 2016 Olympic nominations. Look at all the colorful people next to the Spanish old people... very classy, Spain.

motorcycle highways and history

2009-10-28T21:22:00.005+01:00

From Yellowstone to South Dakota, Markel and I detoured and drove the lonely highways, full of deer and beautiful landscapes.

A stop along the way was Little Big Horn National Monument. Seeing as I married an avid history buff, it was without any doubt that we'd be stopping to see a war memorial. Markel is well aware of the battle and the legendary Colonel Custer. As it seems, my childhood belief of Custer and his men sitting in a grove, being attacked by the Sioux has always been inaccurate. As it turns out, Custer led his men to the group of Lakota that were camped by the river below and a fought broke out. The hillsides mark where both the cavalry and the native warriors fell. A new memorial dedicated to the tribes who fought also reminds Americans that all who fell were American - not only those wearing the blue cavalry uniforms.Driving along the empty highways in southern Montana and South Dakota made for some interesting adventures, especially as dusk settled in. Deer popped out left and right from all directions, luckily none braving a jump across the road. Once we neared Rapid City, our stomachs grumbled alongside the roar of dozens of motorcyclists constantly passing us by. Who knew that South Dakota (Sturgis, to be specific) was motorcycle capital USA?

Hungry and thirsty, we stopped at the local Perkins Restaurant, which sat right next to our hotel. Craving to try a local beer, our waiter kindly told us that the restaurant doesn't serve alcohol. (in deeper questioning, we found out that "since they made the law about not smoking in restaurants, Perkins got rid of their liquor license since it was no longer needed." What?
The next morning we woke up and, after a quick breakfast, hit the road. First stop: Devil's Tower. (a bit backwards for the journey we were making, but we detoured nonetheless) Fog and rain set in, making in questionable if we would even see the weird mountain structure. But... we did! We got hot drinks in the nearby lodge and admired the sight of Devil's Tower amidst the looming fog. (we even heard little Basque-Spanish kids talking to their mom while awaiting my coffee! Basques are everywhere!)

Next stop: Crazy Horse. Once completed, the largest statue in the world. Huge tribute to the Sioux warrior that's been in progress since the 1940s. With no finish date in sight (since construction is based on private contributions or paid entries to the park), the work might take awhile till completion.
Just around the corner was the famous Mount Rushmore. Note to anyone who is set to see it: Don't visit Crazy Horse first! Compared to the enormous size of the native warrior, the four US Presidents look small and boring. Teddy is hidden behind Lincoln, Lincoln's face is turned funnily, and Washington is the only guy finished up to his waist. Markel dubbed it "Lame Rushmore," but we're both happy to have seen the popular American landmark.

Then the drive began... Straight line through SD and then south to Omaha. 12 hours or so on the road, Markel at the wheel (except when night set in and I took over in the midst of wet, dirty fog). Listening to our country honeymoon soundtracks and talk shows like Dawson McAllister, we strolled into the heartland after midnight. Long day of sights, ready to hit the big city...

the first of many

2009-10-24T14:33:00.013+02:00

When first planning our trip around the USA, our three big stops were: Yellowstone, Chicago and New Orleans. On August 5th, we arrived to the first big stop - Yellowstone National Park.

On our route from northern Nevada to Yellowstone, we saw amazing countryside that blew us away. Southern Idaho and western Wyoming are gorgeous! From farmland, passing over the grand Snake River, entering green hills... the USA has so much beauty to offer the world. As suggested by my dad, we took a detour to pass through the southern end so to see the Grand Tetons. Spectacular views from the Teton Pass overlooking Jackson Hole. Although we passed by the Tetons at dusk with a slowly-dying camera battery, we were able to admire and snap a few shots of the great mountains. Along the road entering Yellowstone, we hit road construction, but saw some antelope and little critters that made the ride enjoyable.

We set up camp at night, built a quick fire (thanks to our friendly neighbors who gave us some wood!), and made a hot dog dinner. Once entering our tent, rain fell... We hadn't blown up our air mattress out of respect for the neighbors, so I awoke feeling wetness in the sleeping bag and on my pajamas. However, that beautiful Thursday morning the sun came out and we were able to dry out the tent before heading to bed the next night.

In Yellowstone, we saw such incredible sights. Being warned by Markel's mom that Yellowstone was a volcano and could potentially explode, we knew about the volcanic activity below... So, of course, we headed straight to the geysers! Huge, steamy, boiling geysers at Mud Volcano awed us, as well as the lazy bison and buck hanging out in the meadow nearby. Yellowstone, as we found, is tatanka (bison in Lakota) country. They grazed and cruised the hillsides, looking like such friendly beasts. The Hayden Valley was full of the beautiful creatures! After Hayden Valley, we walked up to see the Yellowstone Falls, which is where it was apparent why Yellowstone is named as such. The canyon was full of colors from the minerals and sulfur tarnishing it. The colorful mini-grand canyon inspired us to take a brief hike to get some better views. Shortly after, at lunchtime we had a small picnic in a nearby grove. We then headed by car to Mammoth, where more geysers and sulfur springs create natural stair steps. The little thermophiles build communities creating large crystal-like shapes and designs. As rain began to fall, Markel and I busted out our new Yellowstone gear to keep warm. We headed back to camp, waited for the rainclouds to disperse, and built a fire.

Our last day at Yellowstone was full of excitement too. I woke up early to build a fire and make us delicious cheesy eggs, orange juice, and hot chocolate for breakfast. We headed west to see the Geyser Basin and park full of beautiful pools that led up to the lakefront. After admiring the smelly, colorful pits, we went to Yellowstone's famed Old Faithful. While awaiting for the next eruption, we dined at the lodge on bison chili and a pair of Grand Teton Ale. Once watching Old Faithful and other geysers explode, we continued our drive around the park through the Continental Divide and around the middle of the park. Amazing sights and unforgettable memories...

Our last night in Yellowstone we decided to enjoy a decided to walk down to Yellowstone Lake and enjoy a bottle of wine to honor the unknown guest who gave it to us at the wedding. Thank you, whoever you are, for a delicious treat along the lake! Back to camp early after our toast to start a fire with strong coals to make an amazing dinner. We invited our neighbor, who had set up camp solo, and looked hungry and friendly and willing to be good conversation. He was hanging out by himself, camping for a few nights. He told us his stories of being an Iraq War veteran and how he was discharged because of emotional distress. A nice guy, traveling the road home whom we were happy to share our bison patties with. A great night and an amazing visit in a grand national park.

a sweet start to our honeymoon

2009-10-17T13:20:00.010+02:00

7,902 miles on the road, 19 different states, and years of memories...

Markel and I headed out on our Honeymoon Road Trip 2009 (does that imply maybe we'll have a repeat in another year?? potentially...) on August 4th, after family had headed out and the dust had settled from a wedding frenzy.

Our escape started off in a gold Ford Focus with Markel at the wheel. First stop, Elko, Nevada. Along the way, we experienced California's diverse landscapes of dry rice fields, green hills and Sierra Nevada mountains, and rocky canyon along I-80. Construction at the border slowed us down a bit, but we caught speed as we crossed through northern Nevada, which much to our surprise, was hilly and gorgeous.

Elko, Nevada originally had been a pitstop between home and Yellowstone, but quickly we learned about the large Basque population and great eats the town boasts. We stayed at a Rodeway Inn along the "main strip" in Elko, and dined at the Star Hotel, famous for Basque-American cuisine. Walking through the doors, Basque decor jumped out at us - from photos of the Basque Country to newspaper articles about traditional Basque sport to signs reading "Ongi etorri" (welcome) to the bar stocked with Pagoa, the Basque beer hard to find even in Spain. In Basque bliss, we sat down, ordered a Sierra Nevada and Pagoa to ring in our newly Basque-American union. As we sipped away, an old Basque-American trucker-cowboy sat down next to us and started chatting with the owner and bartender IN Basque. Needless to say, I was excited and tried convincing Markel to chat with them too. Of course, he didn't... But it would have been fun!

When we sat down in the dining room, we still were in awe over the number of Basque paraphanalia lining the walls. Crests, wood-carved pictures, and family-style platters being served to tables. We ordered spicy chicken and bacon-wrapped steak for our entrees, but that was only a small portion of what we got. As starters, they brought us a simple green salad with a garlic ranch dressing, porrusalda (leak soup) and bread. With the meal came, sides of green beans, spaghetti, red beans, and french fries all accompanied our entrees. Amazing meal to start off an amazing journey.

Living in the Basque country four years ago, and now being married to a Basque guy, this stop became a quick highlight to our journey together. If you're ever traveling through northern Nevada, we highly recommend the Star Hotel, whether you know your Basque culture or not...

here comes the bride... again...

2009-09-09T10:52:00.006+02:00

Markel and I double tied the knot on August 1st!

Back in California, familia and amigos from both the USA and España gathered to watch us re-tie the knot. The day was built with hard work, sweat and tears from all.... Months of planning by Mom - from cake tasting to finding centerpieces. Dad and Mom made invites, sent them off, and carried on other tasks till July when I came back home.

I will be forever grateful to those who helped because they helped turn TJ Farms into a beautiful, made-for-us wedding site with beautiful wildflower bouquets lining the aisle, a gazebo draped with white tulle and wisteria with a base of two potted lavender and sage plants, homemade boutonnieres, wildflower centerpieces along with stories of our favorite places, beautiful bouquets made with love, and clotheslines of photos of both Markel and I and our guests.

The atmosphere was full of warmth and love. As they entered, guests signed a frame that we have already carried across to Spain with us and the ladies got a fan to cool down with. Once everyone was seated, Louis Amrstrong's "What a Wonderful World" cued and everyone walked down the aisle. (curious side note: I had wondered... "Will people stand? Will they not? hmm..." and they did :))

The ceremony was amazing. Sentimental, honest, romantic, and sincere... A poem by Rudyard Kipling (that had been read by the councilman officiating our Basque wedding) was recited by Mayra and Chris. For days, Mayra had felt so honored and excited to read in Spanish. She practiced with her mom, and todo salió perfecto. Chris, nonchalant and cool, began to tremble and smile as the words flowed... Two of my dearest friends recited the poem in a unique and beautiful way.

Markel and I had removed our rings that day, only to put them on once again, but with new dedications in both languages.

"I give you this ring as a symbol of today. As it encircles your finger, may it always always remind you that you are surrounded by my enduring love."

Then the water works started.

Four queridos in our lives - Mom, Lewis, María and Sara - each dedicated words to us as they tied a yellow and purple cord around our hands to symbolize unity and togetherness. Mom shared the representation of our unity and love through the tying of these knots (and Les translated!), Lewis offered kind words of friendship and memories, María (both in English and Spanish) expressed her excitement in being able to be surrounded by our love as well as having earned a hermana. Perhaps the most emotional was when my sister started. After a stressful and busy week, my sister shared sincere words to express her happiness to be sharing the day with us. Her words were so honest and genuine and as she teared up, I did the same. A quick "You can't cry!" and a smile, I tried to fight back the tears and she did the same. The hand fasting piece of the wedding was special with four important people pouring out words of love, memories, hopes, and happinesses. Unforgettable in every way.

After a couple smacks on the lips and smiles to the audience, we headed back down the aisle to the beat of "When I'm 64" by the Beatles.

A long photo session with all the guests moved us from ceremony to comida. We ate delicious tri tip and chicken along with veggies and potatoes courtesy of Culinary Creations. They had draped the tables with white clothes and lavender napkins. We feasted and people chatted. After the meal came the cake cutting, with a normal butter knife (since we had all since forgotten the sword that lay in my room, used in Spain, meant to be used in Chico again...), gently fed one another, and enjoyed three layers of Upper Crust amazingness!!

Out of the dance floor started sounds of the Retrotones, a band that my dad had recommended, who played fun classic rock beats as people got on the floor. People got down, ordered "Beth's Bliss" and "Markeltinis" from the bar, and festejaron mucho. Somewhere in between, the bouquet was tossed (and Alma fought her way to the front to catch it) and later the garter was removed and swiftly caught by Vern. Vern then had to put the garter back onto Alma's leg in good Midwestern fun. Delighted and excited, people made their way back onto the floor as the sounds started up again.

The party at TJ Farms came to a close at 11, but it was far from over for some. We headed down, a group of 10 or so, to LaSalles for 80s night. Despite unfriendly and greedy bouncers at the door, we eventually made our way in and danced the night away till the lights came back on. We danced with old professors, family, and friends who travelled from New York, Vegas, Virginia, Spain and Denver to share in the festivities. It was a night of laughter and fun as everyone got their best moves on to the beat of "Jessie's girl" and "Take on me."

The after-party continued as a smaller group (the Spaniards, my brother, a few friends, bride and groom) headed over to Arabian Nights. We almost closed that bar down too, but Markel and I were pooped from a long day and lots of emotions, so we headed down the street to our pad for the night - the beautiful Hotel Diamond (thanks Mom and Dad!).

Although it was "round two" and some questioned if the wedding were to be smaller scale or less memorable, our Chico wedding was nothing short of amazing. Surrounded by people we care about, organized by my own family, and celebrating American style was wonderful.

craving Chico

2009-06-26T20:03:00.005+02:00

Markel and I are longing for Chico...

On our summer list of things to do:

El Paisa burrito wagon
Mt Lassen (let's see a volcano!)
Outlaws baseball game
Bear Hole
Carmichael backyard oasis
Sara's 30th!
plan honeymoon road trip
Bidwell park
Chico Mad Dawgs games
riding bikes
camping trip
Les&Lew wedding!!
tour guides for familia vasca
American Wedding 8-01!!

house hunt

2009-06-26T19:51:00.003+02:00

Markel and I are out of cute, little piso at the end of this month and on the search for a new one!

We're looking to move within Madrid, to a larger flat near the center of the city. Anyone know of any??

mister & missus

2009-04-22T13:57:00.012+02:00

April 18th, 2009

8:45 Markel took me to his mom's house to have my hair done. His sister awoke, frantic, saying that her boyfriend couldn't move his back and they'd have to go to the hospital... They'd be lucky to make it to the wedding. Markel's mom and I simply smiled, avoiding the drama, and continued finishing my hair.

10:05 I met Markel's dad at the dry cleaners to pick up my dress. Markel's sister, María, and her boyfriend had just been picked up from the hospital where Toni had a shot in his culete to bring his neck and back up to speed.

10:10 Flowers were distributed. Yellow flowers for the family - the dads, the moms, and grandma. Purple for Markel and the four grooms buddies. (Peta, Seta, Jefe & Juanma)

10:30 Back at the house. Markel had already left to his aunt's house to get ready with his friends. Becky and Sara were in charge of makeup, making me look beautiful while they got ready too.

10:32 Markel's stepmom, Juani, told Becky and Sara to have some breakfast... couldn't start with the makeup without eating!

11:00ish Re-start makeup. Debating colors, techniques and styles.

11:54 Sara hasn't had a chance to get ready since she's been busy making me beautiful! Becky shoos her away while she finishes the last touches.

12:05 Getting in wedding dress... remember the garter, the nylons, the jewelry...

12:35 Markel calls... "Where are you guys?" (as Markel's dad is impatiently waiting with the car for us to be finished...)

12:45 Finally we arrive to the city hall. Cheers, smiles, and cameras greet me as I get out of the car (forgetting to remove my seatbelt at first). Everyone piles into the city council's chambers. Dad walks me upstairs and seats me next to Markel and our two witnesses - Gema (my old roommate when I studied abroad) and Igor (a friend from Markel's group). First seconds of silence followed by loud cheers and claps by our friends and families - along with the occassional "¡GUAPA!"

Ceremony The councilman (of fiestas and events, nonetheless) Iñaki enters the room. He reads us the laws of matrimony followed by a poem by Rudyard Kipling. We stand up and face one another. In English, Iñaki asks if I accept the responsibilities as stated by the city of Getxo. "Yes, I do." In Spanish, he asks Markel the same. "Sí, acepto." Our ring bearers (little Ugaitz, a second cousin of Markel's, and Aimar, my new step-nephew-in-law) bring our rings. We place the rings on our left hands, as common in the USA (Spain places wedding bands on the right hand). He pronounces us marido y mujer. We kiss!

Mr. & Mrs After everyone piles out of the city hall and awaits us on the balcony, we walk down the stairs. At the door of the city hall is an archway of traditional Basque dancers, dressed in folk clothes. They make an arch with swords and candycane-like sticks. We walk through the archway and are greeted by a dancer called aurresku who dedicates his dances to the new bride and groom. He is wearing a white uniform with a red sash. After he honors the new matrimony, the entire group of Basque dancers appear on the balcony and perform a few dances all together. They dance to the beat of a small tambourine and a flute that one man plays simultaneously! Once the performance finishes, each dancer wishes us congratulations in Basque "Zorionak" and gives us two kisses on the cheeks.

Photo session We walk over to gardens near the city hall for a photo session with family and friends. Everyone jumps in who wants their photo taken with the bride and groom. Markel and I then joined our fathers and went to a nearby windmill and cliff for the professional photo shoot with our photographers. Punta galea is a beautiful area with a view of the bay. Can't wait to see the pictures!!

The neverending lunch Our chauffer, Markel's dad, drove us to la Casa Vasca restaurant in Bilbao. We mingled a bit in the wine cellar, munching on appetizers and drinking cava. The apertifs included little sausages txistorra and cod in different sauces from the region. Bubbly Spanish sparkling wine cava was adorned with a cherry.

Our entrance After the rest of the guests found their place in the dining room, Markel and I entered to What a Wonderful World as performed by Joey Ramone. After a quick "thank you" and "gracias," done in both languages, we had a seat and started the five-course meal.

The meal First plate included boiled prawns, wild salmon, foie (duck paté) on toast and asparragus. Second plate included grilled prawns and ragout (a stew-like seafood dish served in a shell). First main dish was grilled seabass, followed by a lemon sorbet to cleanse the palate. Second main dish was steak tender loin with potatoes.

The dessert I cut our cake with a sword-like knife that the restaurante provided us with. Markel cut my piece next. As we were served our cake, we also were served the dessert plate with ice cream, chocolate treats, and a coffee to follow.

Bouquet & garter toss Although Spanish traditional also includes the bouquet toss, we added the American tradition of the garter toss. To the sound of Beyoncé's All my Single Ladies I tossed the bouquet... and who caught it? My sister, Sara! After a brief explanation of the American tradition of throwing the garter, Markel tossed it. His friends fought hard, but ultimately Jurgi walked away with the prize. However, the game was not over. We included the tradition (perhaps a midwest tradition?) of the bachelor who caught the garter must then place it back onto the leg of the bachelorette who caught the flowers. With red faces and lots of laughter, Jurgi put the garter on Sara's leg.

First dance Dream a Little Dream of Me sang by Billie Holiday and Louis Armstrong played as Markel swept me around the dancefloor.

Karaoke The DJ got the tunes started and encouraged people to get out on stage. Highlights of the incredibly successful karaoke event included Like a Virgin performed by Uncle Mark, Dad, Matt, and our friend Brandon as well as Hotel California sung by Dad and I. Markel and I also did a duet of With a Little Help from my Friends by the Beatles. Bohemian Rhapsody and a song in Basque also made the list of karaoke performances.

Regalitos Markel's gifts to the males in attendance was a Cuban cigar recommended by a friend of ours. He passed them out to the guys (and a few ladies who wanted one too) while my mother and I handed out my gifts for the girls. I gifted a heart-shaped cookie cutter with a recipe that was my grandmother's. I wanted to share my love for baking as well as an American family tradition of sweet treats to celebrate!

The Garden After a long lunch, we went downstairs to continue dancing. The restaurant has a club that is attached below. The DJ played popular tunes that we all tore up on the dancefloor. Best surprise was Markel's grandmother headed downstairs too! She continued saying that "Today I have won another granddaughter in my life!" which lit my face with a giant smile.

Divino Cielo The after-party followed at a nearby bar called "Divine Heaven." Markel and I had arranged with the bar to allow our large group to take over the bar in turn for cheaper drinks. While our party wasn't exclusive, the majority of the bar was full of the wedding guests. Uncle Mark danced with the English and non-English speaking guests, easily making lots of friends. My brother reinacted the Basque dancing we had seen earlier in the middle of a group of friends. Around 2:00 a.m., Markel and I said our goodbyes and headed the Carlton for our first night as husband and wife.

here comes the bride

2009-04-14T00:27:00.002+02:00

On Saturday, Markel and I will officially tie our lives together.

With friends and family by our sides, we will devote ourselves with written signatures that what we have experienced since meeting one another will last our life times.

cows in madrid

2009-03-10T13:17:00.004+01:00

Las vacas have found their way to Madrid. Art projects (similar to the big hearts throughout SF) in the forms of cows can be seen in many of the plazas or along the streets of Madrid. All cows have different forms and paintings. Some have flowers, some are floating in a large glass of chocolate milk, some are solid colors. There are hippy cows, happy cows, sad cows, serious cows. Between dance clubs on Saturday night, we found a lady cow.

valencia: more than a city of oranges

2009-03-02T14:33:00.007+01:00

At the beginning of February, two of our good friends, Carlos and Jill, got married just outside of the city of Valencia. Since Markel and I couldn't make it to the ceremonia we went to celebrate this past weekend, the 6th to 8th. Not only did we festejar for their marriage, it was also Carlos 30th.

Arriving late Friday night, we met up with Carlos' friends and Jill for Carlos' surprise birthday dinner (that had already started when we got there). It was the first time I'd ever been to Valencia and first time I'd ever been to a restaurant similar to the one we went to. It was a restaurante erótico that had delicious food and fun music, but is mostly known for the show afterwards - a Drag Queen show! There were tables of groups of people all around celebrating birthdays, a group of girls having a night out, and a group of businessmen who came to be entertained. They called various people up to stage or talked briefly to different people... Luckily, the MC who asked me some questions didn't end up calling me up for anything more embarrassing - I would have been red-faced and wanting to crawl under a table! It was much nicer watching other people making fools of themselves, haha!! Overall, it was a hilarious experience that I'd be willing to repeat...

The next day we got up and feasted on a delicious homemade Mexican lunch. Later we toured a bit of Valencia. We saw the museum, IMAX, and aquarium that all have amazing buildings along the former river of Valencia. Gorgeous buildings that are well worth wandering around! We grabbed churros con chocolate at a local bar that filled our tummies and warmed us up a bit. The night before we'd seen the old town, so we saw a bit of it in daylight. We saw the train station and cathedral too. In the evening, we finished it off with a quick dinner at home and off to the bar that Carlos DJs at. DJ Txarly (pronounced Charlie) played all the tunes following a hip hop show put on by local singers. After the noche set in, we decided to cab it back home to snuggle in bed so we could take advantage of our Sunday...

Sunday was the beginning of Fallas, the festival for the patron saint of Valencia, San José (Joseph). Las Fallas is a huge festival in Spain most well known for the week of the 19th of March, where they built enormous floats that compete against each other for various titles. The "loser" floats end up being burned throughout the city the day of the saint, the 19th. Although we didn't see the burning of the floats (and probably won't get to this year), we saw the opening ceremony called Mascletá. It took place in the City Hall square where they lit off lots of fireworks. Although typically for the beautiful colors and shapes, these fireworks are special for the sounds. Since they are set off in the middle of the square, the louds booms vibrate off the walls and make deafening bombing sounds that awe the crowd.

After a lunch at an Italian favorite of Jill and Carlos, Markel and I hit the road back for home in Madrid. A fun weekend of new experiences spent with great friends!

Welcome to Motor City

2009-01-09T13:09:00.008+01:00

On our journey home from Chico, Markel and I stopped through Detroit to see the Carmichael family. Although Michigan isn't one of the most common states to visit nor is Detroit a popular city to tour, we were able to experience them both in full effect with the help of our dear tour guide, my Uncle Mark. My aunts, uncles, and grandma were all great hosts who opened their homes to us and made for a memorable vacation.

My Aunt Kathie and Uncle John picked us up at the airport and took us to their place. They live in a quaint farmhouse on a plot of land where you can see few neighbors and no town or city. The house is beautifully decorated with antiques and homemade craftsmanship. Their four year-old dog, Buffy, ran around the house and entertained us the two nights we stayed there. Their tree was lit and Christmas village still up for us to enjoy. We ate delicious cheeses, fruits, and drank wine over great conversation.

Uncle Mark gave us a tour of Detroit in his Jeep Cherokee, from Motown to Grosse Pointe. On Saturday, we started by hitting the big museum stops. We went to the Motown Museum, where we saw the birthplace of some great music. The Supremes, Jackson 5, the Temptations, and more all produced their hits right in the Motown studio. We also visited the Detroit Historical Museum to learn about the years in Detroit from fur trading to building cars. My favorite stop was the Detroit Institute of Art (DIA) where we saw masterpieces by Diego Rivera and Joan Miró. For a bite to eat, we tried real Detroit food - the Coney Island from the famous American Coney Island in downtown.

Throughout the rest of the weekend, we were at Grandma's house. On Sunday morning, we toured Mark's workplace where he showed us the forgotten connection between the car manufacturing industry and all of the people who help to build pieces that support it. His company is responsible for building robots that facilitate and speed up the process of making various pieces of a car and other machinery. Later that evening, Grandma hosted a family party where we met Mark's girlfriend and played pool and ping pong with the cousins. Of course, we ended the night with a Carmichael tradition of playing Blitz (and Markel brought home the winnings!).

Our last full day in Detroit was nothing short of exciting. On route back to Aunt Kathie and Uncle John's, we stopped by Belle Isle and went ice skating! Never had a seen a real-life frozen-over lake, river or canal. Not only did I get to see all three, we got to walk and skate on top of the canal! Later we crossed the border to Canada and had a late lunch while watching the sun set over the Detroit skyline. Making our way back to the farmhouse was a bittersweet reminder that our journey to the states was coming to a close... After a fantastic jaunt in Michigan, we packed our bags and flew out on Tuesday afternoon.

summer wedding, check

2009-01-09T10:46:00.002+01:00

American Wedding
August 1st, 2009
Chico, California
TJ Farms
5:00 pm ish.

navidades

2008-12-29T01:09:00.004+01:00

For the past week, Markel and I have been in Chico celebrating the holidays. It's been a week full of visiting, eating, enjoying. On Sunday, many of our friends came with lots of goodies to snack on. We drank sangría, ate appetizers, and chatted with new and old amigos.

On Tuesday night, the group went out to experience downtown Chico. I had promised my sister's boyfriend Matt a night out of barhopping, and we definitely followed through. Not only did we stop through six of Chico's bars, we got Matt and Markel to ride the bull at the Crazy Horse!

Throughout the week, we have eaten dinners together and gone wine tasting at a few local wineries. We've dined on ratatouille, pork sirlion, shrimp, quesadillas, turkey, mashed potatoes, chocolate cake, sugar cookies, peanut cookies, candy canes, sushi, hot chocolate, french toast, scrambled eggs, tortilla española and more. We've easily gained many pounds that hopefully will be resolved in the new year!

Although our time in Chico is brief, we have packed it full of seeing family and friends, eating good food, drinking cheap beer, and enjoying the holiday season. On Friday we're off to Detroit, to fight the cold and hug my grandma! Till then, Merry Christmas, Happy New Year, and enjoy the holidays..

long commute home

2008-12-28T19:17:00.003+01:00

One of the joys of living far away is the commute back to the motherland.

Markel, Lewis, Leslie and I boarded the plane in Madrid on Thursday, December 18th. Markel and I had packed our bags full of bocadillos de tortilla, all sorts of ham, snickerdoodles, and snacks and Lewis bought some goods at Duty Free to help us get through the night.
Our very long 12 hour layover consisted of sitting at the Dublin airport, playing cards, watching Finding Nemo, sleeping on the Mickey D's benches, and chatting about the wonders of life. However, despite the long commute with layovers in Dublin and New York, on Friday night at 2:00 a.m., we came rolling into Chico and haven't stopped since...

home for the holidays

2008-12-13T10:52:00.003+01:00

In less than one week, Markel and I will be stepping foot on USA tierra to celebrate the holidays with Mom, Dad, and the rest of the family. My sister and the love of her life are flying out from Virgina to be with us! For the first time in Carmichael history, we all will be together with partners and all. It's like a quadruple date! (and I'm pretty stoked!)

Things around here have been festive as well. Markel and I have decorate our house with our Christmas tree (that has been weathering storms outside since last Christmas), Santa Claus chain, garland, and our belén (Nativity Set). New fun fact: The belén is more common in Spain than the Christmas tree itself. Interesting!

The Paseo de la Castellana (one of the main strips) is full of lights, Alcalá (another main street that we live off of!) has a beautiful light scene that says "Districto Ciudad Lineal, Feliz Navidad!" People are roasting chesnuts on the street, roscones are being baked everywhere (traditional holiday cake... with a toy or Jesus baked inside somewhere!), shops are lined with toys for the good little boys and girls... I love Christmastime!

We even took a few trips to the sierra where we ate delicious food and toured towns for the day. Markel and I went to Buitrago del Lozoya (beautiful village with a Arabic wall, Catholic church, and a river flowing through) and tried the best pollo asado (roasted chicken) in Madrid! Later, Cassie, Laura and I explored a different part of the sierra in a town called Cercedilla. We rode the train, looking at the beautiful green that surrounds Madrid. Then, we walked around the town and ate a delicious Spanish meal at a local restaurant (mmm... Chorizo with egg and potatoes!!). It has been fun to escape the city a bit!

Yesterday was my last day with some of my little ones. My five year olds (unfortunately known as my "least favorite group" this year) sang "We wish you a merry Christmas" and decorated pictures of Santa, Rudolph, a sleigh, and elves yesterday. They treated me well on the final day, which I appreciated a lot! Later, I saw my private classes. With Hugo, Mario and Lara, we baked cookies. It was fun to watch their eyes as they saw the cookies rise and flatten in the oven. They are hoping to use the recipe for a cooking competition at school this week! With Ignacio and Iñigo, I learned how to play risk (and they finally spoke some English to me!). With their little sisters (Claudia, María and Alba) we made snowflakes with their photo to hang on their Christmas trees. It was a fun send-off until I see them next year!

Tomorrow will be our holiday party here at home with friends. A semi-small group of amigos are coming over to enjoy each other's company before heading home for the holidays. We'll be surrounding by villancicos (Christmas music!), tapas brought by everyone, beer and wine, and then we will have a White Elephant gift exchange! Despite the fact that two friends have confessed being grinchy, I'm sure our house will be full of holiday spirit!

And... finally... the most exciting part of Christmas this year. Heading home! Mom has planned various activities for us, Dad promised to dress up as Frosty (haha, jk), and everyone will be together! May your holiday season be as bright and full of love as mine! Feliz Navidad and Próspero Año Nuevo!

the date has been set

2008-12-02T16:49:00.002+01:00

Boda Vasca
April 18th, 2009
Getxo, Spain

inspiring words

2008-11-02T16:52:00.003+01:00

Maya Angelou was interviewed by Oprah on her 70+ birthday.

Oprah asked her what she thought of growing older.
And, there on television, she said it was "exciting."
Regarding body changes, she said there were many, occurring every day...like her breasts.
They seem to be in a race to see which will reach her waist, first.
The audience laughed so hard they cried.
She is such a simple and honest woman, with so much wisdom in her words!

Maya Angelou said this:
"I've learned that no matter what happens, or how bad it seems today,
life does go on, and it will be better tomorrow."
"I've learned that you can tell a lot about a person by the way he/she handles these three things:
a rainy day, lost luggage, and tangled Christmas tree lights."
"I've learned that regardless of your relationship with your parents,
you'll miss them when they're gone from your life."
"I've learned that making a 'living' is not the same thing as 'making a life'."
"I've learned that life sometimes gives you a second chance."
"I've learned that you shouldn't go through life with a catcher's mitt on both hands;
you need to be able to throw some things back."
"I've learned that whenever I decide something with an open heart,
I usually make the right decision."
"I've learned that even when I have pains, I don't have to be one."
"I've learned that every day you should reach out and touch someone.
People love a warm hug, or just a friendly pat on the back."
"I've learned that I still have a lot to learn."
"I've learned that people will forget what you said, people will forget what you did,
but people will never forget how you made them feel."

spooky in spain

2008-11-01T14:54:00.007+01:00

Who said Halloween was only a USA fiesta?? We celebrated full-fledged here in Madrid.

To start off my noche, I gave a private class to 10 year-old twins Lara and Mario. They both got originial, straight-from-the-USA Halloween Pez dispensers (thanks Mom!) that glowed in the dark. I also helped them experience their first pumpkin carving! The kids were disgusted by the smell and feel of the pumpkin's guts, but dug their little hands inside to pull out seeds. They carved out eyes, a triangle nose, and a happy smile. I even got them to taste a seed! We lit a candle inside and placed it among the other decorations their family had already done. Lara and her friends would later be having a Halloween fiesta at home. So, now, Charlie the Jack-o-Lantern was a final touch.

Me, as the wicked witch of the east, met with Donatello from the Ninja Turtles, a posh zombie, the devil, John McCain, another two witches and a pumpkin. We started out the night at Cassandra's house prepárandonos. We ate pizza and pumpkin seeds and painted our faces green, white, and red. After our costumes were complete, we jumped in Cristina's car and headed to the centro.

Starting off at A la Gorra! we met other characters like a pilot, soldiers, and others. Once in the mood to dance it out, we wandered over to Huertas (the once-gardens of a past ruler and later the neighborhood of writers and important authors). Huertas has since been converted into a strip of bars, dance clubs, and restaurants. We chose a bar that was full of costumes and dancing.

Halloween was everything but disappointing! Spiders, witches, demons, pumpkins, and ghosts filled the streets and windows of the Spanish capital.

back to the ole grinding stone

2008-10-21T11:39:00.006+02:00

Since I've been back, my life has gone through various cambios. The major change, of course, has included Markel and I getting engaged! We're already busy thinking of ideas and planning (and by we, I of course mean my amigas and I). Another change in this new year in Madrid has been my employment situation. No longer part of the auxiliar program through the Spanish government, I went searching for new positions in the Madrid center. Without any problema, I found my new placement is at TEC English Center near downtown (in the barrio Arguelles).

The small building is located at the beginning of the popular street called Guzman el Bueno. It takes about 30 minutes by metro to get from door to door, which is a great improvment from my commute last year. Silvia, my jefa, has been super helpful with organizando my schedule and ordering books and materials for my students and classroom. Yes, I have my own classroom!! I've been decorating and using student work to brighten the bland white walls. I teach three classes at a local school (only 15 minutes by metro from my home) to 7 year olds, 11 year olds, and 5 year olds. It's a Catholic charter school that never fails to give me stories and new experiencias (whether positive or not so positive!). My other classes or in the academy or at my students' homes (which are within walking distance of the academy). I have three private clases with both adults and a 10 year old. I was recently given a class of four females with a pre-intermediate level. My favorite class thus far has been with three adolescents with an upper intermediate level. Having such a variety of ages has helped me in stretching my skills, defining what level and age group I prefer, and being flexible. I'm pleased with the last tres weeks of work and I'm excited for the year ahead!

2008-09-24T11:02:00.005+02:00

MARKEL & I ARE ENGAGED!! A poem in the honor of love...

Yo no te pido
Mario Benedetti, Uruguay

Yo no te pido que me bajes
una estrella azul
sólo te pido que mi espacio
llenes con tu luz.

Yo no te pido que me firmes
diez papeles grises para amar
sólo te pido que tú quieras
las palomas que suelo mirar.

De lo pasado no lo voy a negar
el futuro algún día llegará
y del presente
qué le importa a la gente
si es que siempre van a hablar.

Sigue llenando este minuto
de razones para respirar
no me complazcas no te niegues
no hables por hablar.

Yo no te pido que me bajes
una estrella azul
sólo te pido que mi espacio
llenes con tu luz.

I don't ask you
Mario Benedetti
(a poor translation by yours truly)

I don't ask of you to lower
a blue star
I only ask that my space
be filled with your light.
I don't ask you to sign
ten gray papers for our love
I only ask that you love
the doves that I watch.
From the past I'm not going to deny
the future one day will come
and from the present
that which matters to people
is that they're always going to talk.
Continue filling this moment
with reasons to breathe
don't amuse me by denying yourself
don't speak just to speak.
I don't ask of you to lower
a blue star
I only ask that my space
be filled with your light.

birthplace of america

2008-09-08T06:06:00.013+02:00

When hearing the news of my hemana mayor moving east (of California... west of España), little did I know that her new home would be one of the great historical centres of the United States of America: Williamsburg, Virginia.

This quaint lil' colonial town boasts many historical sites dating back to the 1600's. Decaying log cabins, still-used Capitol Building and taverns, revamped churches and homes, and paths turned into the Colonial Parkway... It all brought me a great stopover between California and Madrid bringing me straight to my American roots.

Not only did I see my dear older sister, I saw the love of her life Matt, my long-lost cousin Jonathan (who lives in the state just to the south) and my bestie Mayra (who flew down from NYC in my honor). We all visited those ancient ruins of the past (i.e. the Historic Triangle of Williamsburg, Jamestown, and Yorktown) as well as grabbed a snack and tastey drinks at Shield's Tavern. We watched a reenactment of a 1706 witch trial for a woman who they still have yet to uncover the real court outcome. We browsed the vinyard and tasted the wine at Viniterra in New Kent County. Chowed down on Mexican, chai, Matt's home cooking, and the famous Wawa deli delights.

Although the past year abroad hasn't distanced me too far from my heritage, I've now gained a real and deep appreciation for my founding fathers and the country they've left ahead for me...

california dreaming

2008-08-18T22:40:00.010+02:00

"There is nothing like returning to a place that remains unchanged to find the ways in which you yourself have altered." Nelson Mandela

Back home. Home sweet sweet home.

Back to taco trucks, bicycles, family, baseball, loads of coffee, old roommates, and reliving memories.

new photos

2008-08-04T02:33:00.010+02:00

Over the past few months, there have been many adventures in my life. Lisbon, 4th of July celebration, Reggae night, meeting new friends, La Coruña. So many photos that tell a million stories. Take a look! Click on the link to the right and let the pictures guide you...

beautiful a coruña

2008-07-25T16:45:00.003+02:00

So, the past three weeks I have been living along the northern coast of Spain in Galicia. Galicia is the comunidad autónoma (basically, a state). The city I'm in is called A Coruña (in Gallego... or in Spanish, La Coruña). It's a beautiful port city full of cute little bars, delicious marisco (prawns, shrimp, lobster, white fish, octopus, etc.), and great people.I'm teaching 14 year olds. After a year of working with my elementary school students, I was re-entered into the world of teenagers. Although I loved working with high schoolers before I left for Spain, I think I was out of my practice these past three weeks. However, but by the end, we have classroom routine, respect, and understanding. The students are talking grammar, vocabulary, and sharing stories in English with me. Sixteen Spanish kids from Valencia, Madrid, Badajoz, and Santander. I've come to learn that teenagers are teenagers, no matter what country they grow up from. They tend to think they're quite different, but they are more similar to American students than different. More than culture shock, I had a bit of an age shock... When I started talking to the students about REM and Cher with blank faces staring right back at me. When did I get old??
The first weekend I spent in La Coruña, a group of five rented Pepe Cars headed north to Ortigueira, a small pueblo where one of the biggest Celtic music festivals took place. Yvette drove her car with me, Meghan, Shannon, and Liz. The five of us packed food, blankets, and a tent that we later pitched on the beach. A huge campsite about 2.5 kilometers outside of the small town was home to thousands upon thousands of people (mostly hippies... amazing scene) for the weekend. I put on my hippied-out clothes and we went dancing in Ortigueira's plaza. Huge stages were set up with great music, loads of people, food and drink vendors along the street. We danced and spent the night on the streets until early Sunday morning when we walked back to the campsite.

Last Sunday, on Parent's Day at camp (only one of my kids' parents came!) we all took a bus to Santiago de Compestela, a small town that has huge Catholic importance. The town is the ending point of the Camino de Santiago (the Catholic pilgrimage). Although we didn't sport any trekking gear or rosaries, Shannon and I toured the town by foot and ate a delicious veggie meal of cheeses from the region and amazing grilled veggies.
Today marks the day when we only have two days left of class. Tomorrow we'll have a performance by the different classrooms and Monday is the final exam. I head back to Madrid on Madrid by car with a few friends. After spending a few days with Markel, I will get on a plane back to the states to visit the family and friends I miss so much! Excited to see everyone! :)

a coruña

2008-07-04T14:59:00.003+02:00

My time as an auxiliar de conversación has officially ended as of last week. I no longer work in San Agustín de Guadalix and will be searching for new jobs come September. Had a great year, learned a lot, but looking for something new in the future.

Tomorrow I head northwest to Galicia. I will be teaching English in the capital at a summer camp for young teens. My students are in the level "Upper Intermediate." They should be a group of students that I look forward to working with. Three of my good friends will be up there with me to spend the month as well.

I've never been to the Spanish northwest. Galicia is famous for great seafood (we'll see if I grow an appetite for it...) and having a culture pretty different than typical Spain. People speak Gallego, a language similar to Portuguese. I'll be staying in La Coruña (or as the locals call it... A Coruña) at the university giving class four hours a day. Right along the coast, a new atmosphere. Excited to experience a new piece of Spain. I'll keep you posted of what I think!

campeones

2008-06-30T21:19:00.004+02:00

ESPAÑA won the EuroCup 2008!

Thanks to the one goal scored by Fernando Torres, Spain beat Germany 1-0 in this year's European soccer championships. Spain's win was the first since 44 years back!

viva españa

2008-06-27T13:58:00.002+02:00

Spain has made it to the Euro Cup 2008 finals!

First beating Russia, Sweden and Greece to make it to the quarterfinals, later against Italy (winning 0-0, 4-2 in penalties). And now, beating Russia in the semi-finals 3-0.

Highlights & photos of the game (espanish version)
http://www.elpais.com/especial/eurocopa/

Hightlights & articles (english version)
http://news.bbc.co.uk/sport2/hi/football/euro_2008/7476696.stm

NEXT GAME: Sunday night against GERMANY.

viva españa, olé

happy father's day

2008-06-15T21:02:00.001+02:00

Make a Smilebox scrapbook

27 pavos: markel's getting older

2008-06-03T19:17:00.004+02:00

ZORIONAK ZURI MARKELTXO!

After a wild concert (El Electric Weekend) in southern Madrid for the boys (Lewis, Markel, Kris, & Angelo) and an international dinner for the girls, we woke up Saturday morning ready to head north. Anxiously, the birthday boy opened his gifts... a cookbook and apron from Mamá and Papá Carmichael, candy and limoncello liquor from Yvette and Cassie, and a trip to Lisbon from yours truly (details coming soon). Once everyone arrived, we packed our bags into the cars and hit the road. Without prisa, we stopped along the way for lunch and restrooms. We ate delicious bocatas under a tree in the middle of a grassy knoll. Stomachs full, we got on the road again. Poor Markel has a car-full of girls playing "Would you rather...?" and telling crazy stories. Although, lucky him, he did get a Mad-Libs dedicated to him.

We stopped by Markel's dad's house first then headed into Bilbao. While Markel made rounds visiting his fam, we met with Lew and Les to relax. Around 9, the rest of the group showed up, ready to party. First stop: sidraría. Basque ciderhouse. Let me explain. 28€ for chorizo a la sidra, morcilla blood sausage, bread, tortilla de bacalao (cod), and a fat delicious ox steak. And, most tempting, the all-you-can-drink cider. The ambiance was great. Before us had entered a group of 8 young guys. Next entered a table of about 12+ guys (one dressed as Spanish sensation Chikilicuatre http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rodolfo_Chikilicuatre) and later more and more groups... bachelor parties, engagement party, more birthdays. Laughing, shouting, eating, drinking, and being surrounded by fantastic company. What more could the birthday boy ask for? We spent well over three hours there until the waiters started taking our glasses and kicking us out. We left having dined with music star Chikilicuatre wannabe, a pink matador, and bride and groom-to-be gone Hawaiian.

We wandered down the hill to the Casco Viejo only to find it closing for the night. However, we did sit and enjoy more unneeded copas. Upon exiting the bar is when the downpour began. Euskadi is known for its weather (constantly torrential rains and thunderstorms that drench both the people and the land) and Bilbao did not disappoint. Similar to when my parents came in March, the clouds sent down heavy rains, dampening our spirits and soaking our clothes. We headed to the metro around 4am, umbrellas overhead. Although the evening ended exhausted, harta, and unhappy for some, an unforgettable 27 for Markel and for all.

hierbas hierbas everywhere

2008-05-24T14:12:00.005+02:00

When you walk out onto our cute little terraza, a beautiful green addition catches your eye! We have planted oregano, marjoram, sunflowers, white flowers, roses, parsley, basil (which isn't doing too hot), and mint. Can anyone help name this red flower that Markel bought me? I don't know what it is, but I love it. I'm really excited to harvest some delicious hierbas when the time arrives!

a dip in the turkish baths

2008-05-19T13:14:00.006+02:00

Over the past week, Markel and I have had numerous visits from friends leaving the country after a year studying abroad (Michael, Kaitlin, Taff) as well as friends passing through Madrid (Mike Nieto, Leslie, Lewis). Por casualidad, it was also the Patron Saint Day of Madrid, San Isidro, on Thursday. We celebrated by going to our favorite sangría bar called Cuevas Sesamo, being with loads of friends, watching fireworks, eating Indian as well as Asturian, dancing at Pachá, and the highlight... going to the Turkish Baths. Leslie and Lewis were down from Bilbao and, after a recommendation by Michael and Kaitlin, we booked a day at the Turkish baths. The baths are near the heart of the city in a beautiful place called Medina Mayrit. There are three small pools (warm, hot, cold) as well as the Turkish bath (steamy sauna). We interchanged between the three pools and sauna as well as sipped on cool water and tea found dripping from the fountains in a relaxation room. After an hour and half of experiencing the calm, quiet, tranquilo pools, we left feeling renewed and relaxed.

conil de la frontera

2008-05-19T13:01:00.005+02:00

For the puente in May, Shannon, Yvette, and I headed south to catch some rays and take in some sun. On May 1st, after an exaggeratedly long bus ride (5.5 hours longer than expected), we arrived to Cádiz. On Friday morning, we took the bus to our planned destination, Conil de la Frontera. We had rented an apartment for the weekend. Immediately upon arrival to Conil, we fell in love... White plaster buildings, beautiful beach, and summer vibes. We spent the next three nights and four days relaxing by the beach, drinking rebujitos (white wine with Sprite), sunbathing, eating seafood and snacks. A perfect weekend to enjoy the great weather and the good company.

ancient ruinas in our backyard

2008-05-19T02:22:00.004+02:00

monday 24 marzo

Last stop on the trip. Although sad because it meant the vacation was coming to a close, we were nonetheless enthralled with Segovia. Without a doubt, Segovia is known for the tall aqueducts the Romans' incredible architecture left still standing. The tall ruins offer amazing history to the small city that continues to progress around it.
Another stop in the city, as with any city you're traveling to in Europe, is the cathedral. The cathedral is huge! We didn't go inside, but hung out a bit in the plaza in front of it to capture its outdoor beauty.
As Dad had been itching to see a castle while in Spain, we headed inside the Alcázar in Segovia. The fortress sits right on the tip of a cliff and overlooks a deep trench below and part of the towns surrounding. The inside tour offered massive paintings, sculptures, thrones where Isabel and Fernando once sat, bedrooms, knights, and more.
One of the most impressive about the cliff upon which the Alcázar sat were the great views. The snow-topped mountains lay in the background and Dad and I couldn't help but pose.
We were nostalgic as we headed back to the car, reflecting on the past week and a half.... the sights we'd seen, the people we'd meet, the experiences we'd had. The next morning, our venture came to a close as I hopped in the taxi with Mom and Dad and headed for the airport. I am so fortunate to have family who cares to share part of my life with me, wherever I am in the world. I'm proud of them for stepping onto the plane to make the flight here, experience a world very different from our own in Chico, yet another place I love. Thank you for visiting and traveling with us, Mom and Dad. I miss you both already and will cherish every Spanish Adventure experience forever!

Ongi etorri to the Basque Country!

2008-05-12T11:08:00.006+02:00

saturday 22 marzo

Our longest camino was between Barcelona and Bilbao on Saturday morning. With strong winds and some rain and snow, we made our way through high desert and northern Spain, finally reaching our destination - Getxo!

Then the craziness began...

Mom and Dad... meet Ama and Aita. My parents got to meet Markel's fam. We arrived at his dad's house and were greeted by José (his papá) and Juani (madre de hecho). Caí also ran obsessively through the front yard. We got a tour of the place - gardens, garage, house, etc. Communication was broken as my Dad struggled to understand through gestures and visuals, my mom used her vocabulary to express understanding as well as ask questions, Juani and José laughed and simply showed off their home. Markel and I played translators as well we wandered around, looking at the partridges and quails they own as well as the various fruit trees.

After a quick bite to eat and chatting about our trip thus far, the four of us headed out to meet Markel's Ama (mom). His mom is a very sweet woman who lives with a few roommates in "downtown" Getxo. She made us tea and brought out cookies as we sat and chatted about random topics that the nearby television mentioned. A PSOE supporter living in a Basque pueblo had recently been murdered outside his home by Basque separatists, which offered a lot of conversation about the details and the motives.

The meeting and greeting didn't end there! After a quick stop along Punta Galea to look out over the bay by night, we drove over to Markel's grandma's house (Amama). His grandma, the matriarch of the family, is quite a character. Although her mind is going a bit in her almost-immobile condition, she laughs and has a funny wit about her that never leaves one bored. Amama joked with us, speaking Spanish to even my Mom (who barely understood anything the woman said) and Dad (who just smiled and nodded). She commented that Mom and I could go dancing together since she was so young and beautiful. She told my dad that he would have to be careful, treat her right, and hold onto her. We all had our laughs and went next door to visit the tíos, Markel's aunt and uncle who live in the adjoining house.

Markel's tío offered us all goblets of vino tinto to sip on as we waited for the meal to be served. We chatted about what we had already done on our tour and what was yet to come. After a long chat about life, we sat at the table, ready for food (although not starving since we'd been fed at both previous homes). First plate: sopa de marisco (seafood soup). As you can imagine, I don't like seafood soup. Even more so, my dad doesn't. Therefore, we sipped our way through the first plate while Mom tried to overcome any prior experience she may have had. For sure, Mom wins between the three americanos at the table for "best attempt." Second plate: pimientos rellenos (stuffed peppers). Amazing! Loved loved loved them. The wine continued to flow as well... And then came dessert. Fat chocolate cake served with champagne. Needless to say, without wanting to, my parents and I left stuffed beyond belief, buzzed, and reeling from the Spanish conversation that controlled the table (to be specific, Markel and his tío talking politics).

sunday 23 marzo

Tour day! Markel's dad and stepmom joined us to tour the Puente Colgante (Hanging Bridge). Top tourist stop in Getxo. We climbed over the tall building as Markel's palm's sweat and I smiled. Great views of the city and the rain had held off thus far. But not for long...

We headed to the Casco Viejo for pintxos and txakolí. Delish. Mom loved the bars covered with loads of food.

Then it hit. The rain. And I'm not talking a few sprinkles. I'm talking HUGE FAT DROPS OF RAIN! We hid out in the Guggenheim in hopes of staying dry and getting an artistic feel of the city. Of course, the Guggie offers super-contemporary art that my parents and Markel hoped I could explain to them... I definitely appreciate it, but couldn't explain why a neon sign that says "Neon Sign" makes the cut for the gallery.
Next stop: FUN FUN FUN! Leslie and Lewis met us near San Mamés for a quick bite to eat at Krunch. We all walked over with our umbrellas up to catch the Athletic of Bilbao vs. Getafe fútbol game.

Despite pouring rains jarreando encima, we kept our umbrellas up, scarves wrapped around, hats on, and shoes as dry as we could while watching the game. Without a doubt, an unforgettable experience that I would repeat - with or without the rain.

Barna: la ciudad de Gaudí

2008-05-07T19:41:00.007+02:00

thursday 20 marzo

Since we couldn't quite get enough of the mediterráneo, we took a coastal highway that followed the sea straight up to Barcelona. Mom was super camera-happy and easily took 60 photos along the drive. It briefly rained on us, but when we entered the Cataluña capital skies were clear. As Markel and I navegated the streets of one of Spain's largest cities, all of us admired the port, a large statue of Colón (Chris Columbus) and the main strip called La Rambla.

Settling in our hotel was easy since we stayed right along perhaps the most popular Spanish street. La Rambla is full of street performers (that Dad just couldn't get enough of!), flower stands, café terrazas, and the occasional vendor of a six-pack of beer (too funny really...). Since we arrived late, it was a mellow night. We walked down to the Barri Gótic to find a bite to eat. Of course, Dad had previously spotted an Irish Pub, Flaherty's, where we watched the fútbol game and ate Irish nachos (delicious potato wedges covered in cheese, guac, sour cream, and bits of bacon). Markel and I sipped on a Czech beer that the Irish waitress insisted was arguably one of the best beers in the world.friday 21 marzo

We woke up and ate a great desayuno in the downstairs restaurant. Right after, we headed out onto the sunny strip and walked over to the Plaça Catalunya. (Cataluñians have their own lanuage, Catalán, that is distinct from Spanish and that they are incredibly proud of...) We decided that in order to get the best view of the city in one day, we would catch a tour bus. Hopping on the autobus, we first made our way past two Gaudí masterpieces. Antoni Gaudí was an architect and designer who added so much beauty and encanto to the city. Two buildings, La Casa Milá and la Casa Batlló, are among his prized works. The two buildings curve in strange forms with splashes of pastels and bright colors that easily remind you of Dr. Seuss.
We disembarked at the next stop, la Sagrada Familia addition by Gaudí and the first stop any tourist to Barna should take. Gaudí started the cathedral and another is finishing. Following Gaudí's style of art, the large masterpiece breaks all images of what a cathedral "should" look like. One facade has dripping, melting images of the holy family and other biblical scenes. However, the other side, done by the current architect, has contrasting sharp etchings of the stations of the cross. The two facades are of constant conversation and controversy as many people argue that they don't pegar pa' na' (go with each other at all!). The interior remains unfinished, but has large Roman-like pillars jetting up to the ceiling. I was reminded of standing among gigantic California redwoods. Without a doubt, Gaudí's appreciation of combining nature and surreal reality makes for interesting architecture!

We didn't stop with Gaudí at the cathedral though. After jumping back on the bus, we headed to northern Barcelona to see Parc Güell. Gaudí designed the park with loads of mosaic tiles, trees, and more Seuss-like structures. The sun shone bright upon us as we stopped at a kiosco for a delicious ice cream treat. We strolled through the park, listening to various languages spoken by tourists, hearing the tunes of a local guitarrista, and snapping shots of the magnificent views.

Our next stops on the tour took us past the fútbol stadium, to the palace-turned-museum, the Olympic stadium, and over to the puerto. Sitting on the bus and wandering the sights, we built up an appetite that we satisfied with great pizza at a small Italian pizzería found in the Gothic Quarters. Searching for yet more sights, we headed past the Gothic Cathedral where we witnessed innate adorned altars and numerous red candles lit to honor the virgins. Our last stop for the evening was at another park full of yellow and white tulips, a large elephant statue, and cute ponds in which one can row a small boat (like in Madrid) or sit next to reading.
After a long tour of the city, leading us straight to dusk. As night approached, we grabbed a bottle of cava (sparkling wine from the Cataluña region), walked to the hotel, and went upstairs to play some cards. After a relaxing evening in, we headed to bed. The following morning, bright and early, Mom and I headed to the port for a last look at the Mediterranean.

a dip in the mediterráneo

2008-04-30T22:41:00.004+02:00

wednesday 19 marzo

On the road again. We squeezed back into Markel's cochazo (awesome car) and headed east to the coast.

¡Qué emoción! Another one of Mom and Dad's goals when coming to Spain was to see the Mediterranean. So, we headed straight to the source... Santa Pola near Alicante. Markel's family has a bungalow in the small pueblo that we were able to stay at. We invited Leslie and Lewis (a.k.a. Koldo), so they headed there for the night too. When we arrived, we unpacked our bags, toured the house, and realized we were STARVING!

Markel got the pollo asado (rotisserie chicken), some bread and cheese, and delicious desserts. He swung by the bus station to pick us Les and Lew, and we came back to the terraza to chow down.
Once our tummies had been satisfied, we walked the two minute walk to the sea. Los americanos rolled up our pants and my parents touched the mediterráneo for the first time! We spent time splishing and splashing around with our feet, and then headed into town for a medieval market.
The market was full of medieval treasures! The castillo in Santa Pola (well, castle walls... not so much castle anymore) housed a huge market full of food, handmade products, drinks, animals, and games for children. Some favorites were the jousting booth, blacksmithing, donkey rides, honey roasted sunflower seeds, the raptors exhibit (eagles, owls, hawks, etc.), and, of course, the
pig roasting on the BBQ (after being stuck on a spit in the ground!). Although simply one night in Santa Pola, entertaining and exciting.

Granada: A fortress upon a hill

2008-04-30T19:05:00.007+02:00

wednesday 17 marzo

Upon a late arrival en la ciudad preciosa de Granada, my family and I dived right into southern Spanish tradition. For those who have never been to Spain nor studied Semana Santa (Holy Week), just you wait!

A nightscape of the city kept my familia and I second-guessing at just which castle was the Alhambra. After numerous mistakes, we finally entered Granada and spotted - without any dudas - the one and only last-standing Moorish empire fortress. As we neared it and climbed the hill upon which it stood, we realized that our hotel must sit right on it. Markel inched the car closer, and as we unloaded our suitcases and settled in our rooms, we gazed upon the beautiful vista sitting within 200 meters of our window... The Alhambra.

Stomaches empty and butt cramping from the long journey, we headed down the hill to grab a bite to eat and stretch our piernas a bit. Cobblestone streets and white plaster buildings are just what you want and expect from the truly Spanish experience.

Then it happened - the momento I have long awaited - the moment any clueless traveler would have been appalled by (I had informed my parents, so they were not among the clueless). CATHOLIC PROCESSIONS! Now, if you don't remember what I'm talking about, let me remind you of the Spanish I classroom.

Have you seen the men wearing large cloaks and pointed hats that cover their face that oddly remind you a lot of the Ku Klux Klan? In fact, those outfits first worn in Catholic processions came long before the KKK began. The penitents relive Jesus' suffering and remind passer-byers of their Catholic history. Women in black mourn the savior's death, the penitents carry large banners and horns. Shortly behind is a large altar worshiping Jesus, la Virgin, or other important figures. Candles and flowers adorn the massive altar. Beneath stand numerous selected people that carry the heavy load on their backs. What an honor! Although someone has mentioned to me that these religious fanatics could easily be referred to as "Catholic Talibans," the experiencia is one to soak in.
tuesday 18 marzo

Although amazing, the processions are not the sight to see in beautiful Granada. The enchanting city is known for its Moorish palace and stronghold - the Alhambra. On Tuesday morning, the four of us headed to La Alhambra for an afternoon of incredible views and remarkable arquitectura. Booking tickets in advance was crucial - as lines formed to enter and crowds on vacation took advantage of the sun in southern Spain.
I had previously visited the Alhambra's gardens in December 2005, but never went inside the palaces nor seen the water flowing or flowers in bloom. Words cannot begin to describe la belleza and detail one finds inside the palaces. El Palacio de Nasrid and the others take your breath away with the stories told in each room, engravings that reach the ceiling, and history that captures your imaginación.

After a filling lunch and siesta back at the hotel, we headed back out on the town. We hiked the steep hills of El Albaicín (old quarters), enjoyed a night-vista of La Alhambra, and walked down an alley full of shops and great buys. I would have considered some pants, but the fact that the "dressing room" was a neck-high sheet in a corner of the shop with hundreds of mirrors behind me kept me wondering if the shop owners could see my culete (booty).

To end such a great day, we fulfilled my mother's dream of seeing flamenco in Granada. When wandering through El Albaicín, Markel had spotted a flyer for a flamenco show in a bar called El Coto del Gato. Perfect. We headed that way for the show. After climbing a cement stairway, we entered a dim-lit bar carved into the side of a rocky slope. Mom and I sat in small chairs that covered the room that also served as tables. Markel and Dad ordered some cañas and sat in the back, snapping photos. Shortly after, two women and one man took the stage. They were young and would have seemingly appeared inexperienced. One dressed in a typical long, flowing flamenco dress and the other with dreads and a bottle of water in her hand. The man sat on stage with his guitarra. When the three started to strum, I immediately knew that we had found the perfect show. The singer had an amazing, unmatched raspy voice. The guitarrista wore a smile and serious eye. The dancer was sexy, strong, and thin. Although Dad found the show surreal and "not his thing," I think we all left impacted with the talent, strength, and intensity of the show. Most importantly, combined with the history and beauty seen throughout the city, Granada proved to be an enchanting visit.

lazy sunday & first stop: toledo

2008-04-14T20:15:00.008+02:00

sunday 16 marzo

After a lazy Sunday morning full of wandering the streets of La Latina in hopes of good finds at the Rastro (huge Sunday morning flea market) and seeing the massive churches full of people (since it was Palm Sunday), we continued our walk toward El Prado. El Prado promises artwork from thousands of years ago and holds masterpieces from Goya, Velázquez, Murillo, Bosch, El Greco, Rembrandt and others. Audio guide in hand, my dad informed us of some of the details of some of the ancient work and the story behind them. Goya won as my top favorite with beautiful pieces like La Maja Desnuda and La Maja Vestida as well as Saturn Devouring One of His Sons. Much to my disappointment, his famous El tres de mayo de 1808 en Madrid was away for retouching.

monday 17 marzo

After a late night at the bars with friends (and Dad feeling a little under the weather), we all rose early and headed out to our first stop on the road.... Toledo! The not-so-beautiful landscape between Madrid and Toledo didn't offer too much for the parents to enjoy, but they did get the great experience of Markel's highway driving!
Upon arrival to Toledo, the beautiful city-on-a-hill with narrow cobblestone streets, we found a parking spot and began walking through the truly ancient medieval city. Sights like the monastery, the cathedral, and the narrow stretches of winding pathways gave us photographers lots of opportunities for photos. My parents were enchanted by the small stores full of lace, mazapánes (sweet pastry speciality from Toledo), swords, beautiful Damascene jewelry, steel, and tiles. I walked away with a tile souvenir from the folks that says "Paz a los que llegan, salud a los que habitan y felicidad a los que marchan" (Peace to those who come, health to those who stay, and happiness to those who go). Markel and Dad each bought daggers engraved with the city name Toledo on the blade. Mom bought a incredible detailed lace for herself and for a friend as well as a gold and black Damascene bracelet typical to Toledo.
Once starting our walk, we headed directly to the arguably most-famous El Greco painting The Burial of Count Orgaz found in the Santo Tomé Church. The large painting covers a main wall and is definitely one of the must-sees while visiting the small city. The painting was dedicated to Count Orgaz, a member and large contributer to the church. He lies in his tomb directly below the painting. El Greco painted himself hidden in the group of men standing mourning the Count's loss. While we viewed the painting, we could listen to the history from various tour guides translating the story into Spanish, Chinese, German or English. The Chinese translation was especially helpful...

After viewing the San Juan de los Reyes Church (where chains hang from former Christian prisoners during the war against the Moors) and the medieval bridge at one entrance of the city, we headed back to the city center for a bite to eat. Because of my urging on ordering a menú (menu of the day) while in Spain, the four of us stopped at a small restaurant to enjoy the beautiful weather and dine on the terrace. We ate a delicious Castilian soup (egg, ham, bread, garlic, onion) and lemon chicken or entrecott (thin fried steak). For dessert, we all tried the flan, but only Markel could successfully put it down... not our favorite dessert on the trip, that's for sure.
After a quick photo-op with famous Don Quixote, the four of us hit the road and headed south to Granada... Numerous castles and a pit stop in olive country offered great scenery. (Markel Fun Fact: There are more olives in the Spanish province of Jaén alone than in all of Italy combined) We listened to US tunes brought straight from the source by my parents. A late arrival into Granada and to our amazing hotel with a view of the Alhambra (sitting only a short 200 meters away) led way for only more fun stories that will shortly be told...

un poko de turismo

2008-04-14T19:48:00.003+02:00

saturday 15 marzo

After a full night’s rest in our comfy IKEA bed, Mamá and Papá were ready to do more touring! Markel played chauffer and drove the three of us out to El Escorial, a once-monastery turned palace turned cathedral turned a beautiful must-see.

We toured the monastery gardens first… Beautiful sights of the valley below as well as the sheep roaming the grounds. Maze-like shrubs and fountains lined the outside perimeter of the giant building. The day was bright as well, which a definite bonus! Once inside the monastery, we tours rooms upon rooms of paintings, tapestries, and ancient machinery used to construct and transport.

Below the monastery, the tombs of past kings and princes lay. Luckily Markel served as our own tour guide telling us stories of past princes and important figureheads who slept eternally in the tombs we saw. Tombs lay empty awaiting future princes and kings from the Bourbons who currently rule the country (rule being what royalty does, right?).

Shortly after the tour and snapping the infamous photo of “the Catholics,” (i.e. Markel and Dad) we headed to grab an Asturian meal at a fancy-schmancy restaurant. The first real meal at a Spanish restaurant… never know what you’re gonna get. Dad and I went for a similar plate while Mom ate a delicious salad and Markel solomillo. After asking for the meat to be media hecha (I should have known), the waiter brought out two steaks fully red and almost bleeding. Since we prefer our meat without mooing, we returned the meat to the kitchen to be butterflied and darkened. Once edible, we gobbled down the flavorful and juicy filets. Markel and I topped it off with sorbet for a sweet aftertaste.

Once cruising back to town (much to Mom’s disappointment, el Valle de los Caídos closed early and we couldn’t stop in), we prepped for a night a la Irish. Dad's dream before coming to Spain was to check out the Irish Pubs that I had raved about... Being the place most like a bar in the good ole USA. Dad was sure to buy the shirts after we watched an intense fútbol game on the big screen. All in all, a very satisfying and fun experience! :)

bienvenidos a madrid

2008-04-07T22:37:00.004+02:00

friday 14 marzo

After numerous hours and three layovers later, Mom and Dad stepped on beautiful Spanish soil. Hugs and smiles, stories and laughs filled our conversation. We headed to my home sweet home to drop off the things and shortly after hit the madrileño streets.

A tour around town was our first stop… The bull ring (without the bull fighting), El Retiro Park, a Madrid Vision tour showing us the northern city down to the heart. El Retiro offered a nice jaunt through the greenery and bright colors in Madrid while the bus tour allowed us to sit, relax, and see the major sights. The bus tour surprised us with our own personal tour guide too – a lady behind us knew everything about everything (Shortly after telling my parents the royal palace wasn’t the coolest tour, she mentioned to her friends it was a must-see… oops)! We got brief looks at the royal palace, the Puerta de Alcalá, Plaza de España, and disembarked upon arrival at the Templo de DeBod. The Egyptian temple blew our minds – writings from years and years ago “given” to Spain for helping them win a war.

I was amazed at my parents’ upbeat attitude after hours of being seated on a plane without must rest… However, the jet lag finally did set in around lunchtime. Passing by the city center, Sol, we stepped foot on the 0 kilometer mark as well as gave a little wave to the Oso and Madrono. We got a small bite at 100 Montaditos while waiting for Markel to get downtown. I should have seen it coming… Dad had been eyeing the “Cruz Campo 100 Montaditos” glass. Not long after we mentioned going to a nearby spot to eat, the glass was swept under Markel’s jacket and taken home as the first souvenir from Spain.

We lunched at Cañas y Tapas. Mom used her Spanish to order our drinks. (btw, Mom ROCKED Spain with her Castellano!) Without even having to ask, the sleepiness on my padres’ face explained all… We headed home for a siesta, a game of cards, and a night in enjoying each other’s presence.

semana santa... here we come!

2008-03-10T18:34:00.003+01:00

On Friday, my parents will set foot on nueva tierra... Spanish soil! It's been a long seven months since I last had mis padres right directly in front of me, able to touch and hug them. Skype has been a gem, but I am so excited to see them en directo!

Our plan: Madrid, Toledo, Granada, Santa Pola (near Alicante), Barcelona, Bilbao, Segovia.

Thousands of years of history, roman ruins, tapas, the Mediterranean Sea, incredible art from before and after the Renaissance, bridges, castles, Moorish strongholds, sangría, el País Vasco, architecture throughout the centuries, pintxos, the beautiful Spanish language, my home.

living la vida

2008-03-02T13:27:00.007+01:00

Last weekend, some amigas and I headed east to the Mediterranean to escape the bustling ciudad of Madrid. We gathered our gear, stuffed it in Markel's "toy car" and sat, ready to begin el viaje. Keys in, Markel starts the car... click click click and nothing. Tries again. Click click click. Nothing. Battery dead.

A bit of background info: Living in Madrid requires little use of a car. Markel has driven maybe three times since arriving to Madrid. Two trips to IKEA, one trip out of town to Bilbao. So, hadn't started the car since our trip to Bilbao in November.

After failed attempts of asking for pinzas (jumper cables), Yvette, Shannon, and I head around the corner to charm the neighboring mechanic. The mechanic couldn't refuse three foreign girls, sucking on lollipops, stumbling through broken Spanish car vocabulary. He grabbed his cables and walked a couple blocks with us to help the damsels in distress.

On the road. Shannon, always the entertainer, thought of a ridiculous game of "Would you rather...?" that we played for hours as we passed seven or so castles alongside the highway. Once arriving to Santa Pola, the next couple days consisted of eating, drinking, sitting, and relaxing. We spent a brief afternoon on the beach, cooked and ate fish, watched movies, discovered a American "biker bar," and browsed the small market.

Back in el pueblo of Madrid, we just said goodbye to Markel's good friends Gorka, Iker, and Koldo. The three were finishing up a 11 day trek through Germany, Holland, and Belgium. We spent Friday night entertaining. Javi, another friend who lives in western Madrid, invited us all over for dinner. At around 11:45, we started eating. (only in Spain, right?) We had a delicious meal of tortilla de patata with onion, tortilla de chorizo, and serrano ham. Mmmm. Later that evening, we hit the town, discovering a new cave-like bar as well as a good place to dance to fun tunes. Last night, the discoveries continued as we headed to Cava Baja (one of my favorite streets in Madrid) for pintxos (small morsels of great food) and later to a Mexican restaurant La Mordida near Bilbao (one of my fav districts). The fun continued when I met up with Shannon and met some of her new friends. They were eating at La Panza del primero near La Latina. More Mexican food! Shortly after to walking to the following bar, Shannon and I said our goodbyes and headed home. Lots of discoveries that I hope to share as Markel and I have more visitas.

nuevas fotos

2008-02-16T15:02:00.002+01:00

Although no major trips, I've been staying busy with friends' birthdays, discovering parks and new sitios in Madrid, and having a friend in town... To the right, click the link and make some comments to let me know if you like any of the photos! Enjoy!

ritmo latino

2008-02-10T22:58:00.000+01:00

Watch out Madrid! Salsa clubs beware as Markel and I began clases de salsa dancing last Monday. Although both of us were not blessed with gift of rhythm, Markel surprised me for Day of the Three Kings with clases at a local salsa club. Coco, el instructor, is from Cuba and he definitely has got some hot moves. We may never shake our booties the way he can, but we will definitely try! I'll keep you posted if we begin to compete!

make your vote heard... miles away

2008-02-06T22:38:00.000+01:00

While not in the good U.S. of A. for the Primaries this year, with the help of Deomcrats Abroad I was still able to cast my vote! Curious experience though...

Last week sometime, my amigas Cassie and Laura (Indiana) informed me that if I am a registered Democrat, that I could go on supermartes (Super Tuesday) to Star Café and place my vote. After chatting with a couple co-workers of the validity of the vote, I decided it was worth a shot... If the vote didn't count, at least I tried anyway, right? So, I met Cassie and Laura at Star Café Tuesday evening.

Headed by metro to Argüelles and when I turned the corner, knew just where I was headed. Red, white, and blue signs led me directly to the place. Outside stood some Spanish conspiracy theorists who I have run into a few times at the Rastro (huge flea market) shouting "No era accidente. 11-S no era un accidente!" So, September 11th wasn't an accident, it was an inside job. Okay. A guy handed me a leaflet about it (in case I want to further explore the conspiracy...), I walked in the bar, saw American flags, streamers and balloons and, most importantly, a poll station.

After finding the girls, they explained to me the process. I had to register for Democrats Abroad, then once registering, I could vote. As I filled out the paperwork, bright camera lights shined overhead. Yes, video cameras, digital cameras, and lots and lots of propaganda and signage appears to be totally okay at the polling booth. Once I ticked my box, I dropped off my ballot and, much to my displeasure, did not receive my "I VOTED" sticker. We fixed that by drawing it on our hands...

The most interesting part: Once voting, you head downstairs to continue the celebration of America. Lots of tall blond-haired boys and girls saying "like" or "oh my god." Bake sale, live music, and even a man wearing a Davy Crockett hat. The best part... Everyone drinking. I love this tradition! Vote, buy a brownie, and have a beer. It was great. Democrats for Hillary, democrats for Obama, democrats wearing support stickers for Edwards (maybe they didn't get the memo?)... All together, all enjoying the electoral process. Now that's what I call a truly American experience.
P.S. I made the Spanish news... check it out... http://www.mitele.telecinco.es/informativos/nacional/8402.shtml

toledo

2008-01-21T11:28:00.000+01:00

I made my way back to the city on a hill... the beautiful Toledo.

This finde (weekend) we had a visita from our good friends Lewis and Leslie. On Saturday, we headed southeast 70km to the chulo Toledo. This city is known for the hundreds of years of religious tolerance and peace between Jewish, Muslim, and Catholic residents all living within the city walls. Because of the unique history, the city presently has amazing arquitectura influenced by the three cultures. We were able to see the synagogue, the cathedral, and the mosque all in one short afternoon. The small river Tajo winds through the city 's deep canyon with elegant puentes (bridges) crossing it. Besides the incredible scenery, the city fames itself for El Greco, a famous Greek painter who lived and painted in Toledo until his death. Both a small building with a large masterpiece (The Burial of Count Orgaz, painted c. 1586) and his own home are now places to visit while visiting. The above painting was El Greco's interpretation of the city in which he lived. Other interesting tidbits about Toledo are that: Garcilaso de la Vega was born there, was once the Spanish capitol during the 8th century, the city in famous for production of steel, swords, and mazapanes (a delicious sweet dessert).

Leslie, Lewis, and I headed first to a small restaurant where we ordered judias verdes (green beans), paella (typical Spanish rice dish), cordero (lamb), pollo asado, salmon, and a few sodas to wake us up. After the waiter commented that I had "ojos preciosos" (haha, precious eyes!) we headed out to explore the city. We had already entered the enormous city walls that once surrounded and protected the city and currently just remind us of its age. We roamed past the mezquita (mosque) and many jewelry, sword, and sweets shoppes. We circles around the cathedral and later the synagogue, church/monastery, and finished at the river. Before hopping on the bus and heading back to the bustling Madrileña city, we strolled through the winding cobblestone streets and grabbed a quick coffee, soaking in the beauty and tranquility of the city in which we were about to leave.

feliz año

2008-01-09T16:01:00.000+01:00

La cuenta atrás. 10, 9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2,...

Spainards do a similar gig on New Year's as they do in the USA with a few little twists.

First, around 9pm on the Nochevieja (old night = New Year's Eve), a large group of guiris (i.e. white foreigners) came to our home to eat a delicious Felizaño meal cooked by Markel. I contributed little... But I did make the rosemary potatoes and buy some supplies. Shannon brought some jamón and queso. Very Spanish of her. He made hummus, prawns, lentil and veggie soup (brings good luck for the New Year according to Italians!), cheese and spinach puffs (oh my gosh... to die for...), and the kicker - sea bass! We enjoyed our hefty meal along with various tintos and for a final touch... of course, glasses of cava (like champagne, but from Cataluña, region in Spain) to toast with and delicious polvorones, mazapanes, and other treats.

Then the party really started.

At about 11:15pm we headed downtown... straight to the heart of Madrid. Sol. (very appropriately named... Sol means Sun) The big notable difference is that at midnight, although common to drink cava like in the states with champagne, with the first twelves seconds of the New Year, you pop one grape at a time in your mouth. Yes, that's right... one whole grape (which you can buy seedless and peeled... we went for the real deal though) at a time. The challenge is to actually swallow one per second. So, there we were, on the metro, dividing 12 grapes among each of us (friends Taff, Nick, Shannon, Soma, Aaron, Markel and I). We arrive to metro stop Callao at approx. 11:55 pm. Sprinting...

We ran through the crowds of people dressed in random costumes on Calle de los Apreciados and finally got within view of the bell tower. Instead of a large ball drop, there is a huge clock lighted up in the main square. Few false alarms of midnight, Shannon ate her grapes too early, but c'est la vie. Finally, shouts, screams, bell tower sounds, fireworks explode. EVERYONE around us eating one grape at a time... Old, young, students, family, friends. Amazing.

Needless to say, I didn't finish all 12 grapes as quickly as I should have, but it sure was a good try... and a great time!

feliz navidad

2007-12-31T14:55:00.001+01:00

FELIZ NAVIDAD · ZORIONAK · MERRY CHRISTMAS

'Tis the season... Although not in California this holiday season, I still celebrated Christmas in Spain with family and friends. Similar to the States, streets and shops were full of holiday decor for the past month or so... Numerous lights hung on city streets, fairs in city plazas, festivities at local clubs and churches, and much much more.Friends and I gathered at a German Christmas Celebration at a local church to drink hot spiced wine called Gluehwein. The celebration, although mostly surrounded by Germans, reminded me a little of home. Garland, strings of lights, red and green. To top it off, I was surrounded by good company to share the moment with.

At the colegio, we also celebrated. All of the auxiliares came up with Christmastime activities for the children and staff to partake in. We brought Christmas stories (courtesy of my dear mum) to read, sang villancicos like Santa Claus is Coming to Town, Rudolph the Red-nosed Reindeer, etc. The final week, we made sugar cookies (a la Grandma Samuel) to bring for the children to frost... Hundreds of cookies, lots of sugar, and a lot of fun. We colored St. Nick, talked about Frosty, watched Home Alone, and shared traditions. On my last days of class, we had the Christmas assemblies. For the 5 year olds I work with, they sang songs to their parents about farm animals (what they are learning about) while dressed as cows, pigs, sheep, and chickens. The best song was when all the 5 year olds piled on stage (mind you, about 130 children) to sing "The Twinkle Song" that is in English, but does not resemble "Twinkle Twinkle" in any way... Hilarious and cute. The next day I watched the classes I typically am with. The second graders. As our gift to the school, we learned "Santa Claus is Coming to Town" by Hilary Duff. I was the music teacher and choreographer of the song, so I was beaming with the kids pulled it off with great success (with me in front, wearing reindeer antlers, helping). The video is amazing. Hay que verlo.

After biding farewell to all those fortunate souls headed back to the States for Navidad, I headed back to my piso in la Ciudad Lineal to make Madrid a little more "homey" for the holidays. My wonderful mother sent us loads of gifts and decorations for the house. We have a three and a half foot tree, full of gold and red balls and ornaments from the past three Christmases. Underneath, gifts from Olentzero, Papá Noel, Santa Claus, Frosty, St. Nick, etc. On the wall (since there is a lack of a chimney aquí), two stocking hung with care. Hung high, a banner of Santa Clauses (now also garnished with another banner of HAPPY NEW YEAR!). Although Markel is a bit of a Grinch, the house was full of Christmas and holiday tunes (didn't forget "The Channukah Song" by Adam Sandler!). We watched How the Grinch Stole Christmas, The Gremlins, and other holiday movies. I did miss, however, The Christmas Story, playing 24 hours nonstop...

On the night before Christmas Eve, Markel and I headed downtown to see a Christmas nighttime celebration. Fireworks sounded as a beautiful orchestra played (not sure if it was live or recorded.. we were down the street amidst a crowd). The firework show lasted a half hour, shooting colors of blue, red, and green... Gold, silver... On the old post office building read lit-up words wishing us Felices fiestas, Feliz navidad, and more. My highlight was walking past the military building decorated with lights that read Paz en el mundo (Peace on Earth). I got a good laugh.

Christmas Eve and Christmas were the days I most was looking forward to... and most missing at home. On Christmas Eve, Markel and I caught a late autobus to Bilbao, arriving at 8:00p.m. As a happy Nochebuena gift, some young Basque separatists put homemade bombs in a couple banks in downtown Algorta... right downstairs of where Markel's ama (mom) lives. Although disappointing, we didn't let it spoil our night. We ate at Markel's aita's (dad's) home with his stepmom, stepbrother, stepsister-in-law, and sister. We ate jamón serrano, pistachios, caracoles, prawns, and paté for the first course. As the main meal, we ate lamb. After sipping on vino rosado y vino tinto, the dessert arrived on large platters. I had brought both of my grandmothers' cookies. Grandma Carmichael's chocolate mint cookies and Grandma Samuel's sugar cookies. Juani, Markel's stepmom, brought out champagne and platters of polvorones, mazapán, and nuts. We satisfied our sweet tooth and munched away on the delicious treats.

Christmas Day was full of more food... similar large portions of similar food. Dining at Markel's ama's house (thankfully, only the building hallway smelled of burnt plastic and ash... not the house), we joined María (Markel's sister), his ama, and my dear friends Leslie and Lewis from Chico. Since we all were away from home, we came together to spend the day. We ate similar food to the night before's, along with cheeses and salmon. Mmmm.

Also on Christmas Day, we opened some gifts! Mom and Dad sent me and Markel a bunch of gifts from overseas, they spoiled us! We had a great time opening them and thinking about the family. We even got to talk to them using Skype! (side note: download Skype at skype.com, create an account, find me... username todassonrisas. We can talk through phone or webcam for free!) So, we watch my parents open gifts and spend Christmas in Chico while we here. It was really nice!

Basically, although away from the family and friends in California... this Navidad Española went well. I'm lucky to have an amazing guy in my life who treats me so well and shared his family and Christmas experience with me during a time that otherwise could have been some lonely, nostalgic days. Hope everyone else had a Merry Christmas, Zorionak and Feliz Navidad! Soon to come... I'll let you all know how they rock it Spanish Style for ringing in year 2008!

in photos

2007-12-30T12:50:00.001+01:00

Just uploaded tons and tons of photos of Christmas and a recent concierto I went to! Check them out... the link on the right will take you there!

don't you live in madrid?

2007-12-16T12:49:00.001+01:00

You'd think by the numerous times I have been to Euskadi (i.e. the Basque Country) in the last few months that I am still living there...

Of course, Markel and I have gone to visit his family and friends a few times, but then last weekend, I went to Bilbao with some friends to show them around. Shannon, Yvette, and I packed our bags, hopped on the bus, and headed north on Wednesday night. Leslie and Lewis, who are from Chico and live in Bilbao, went to Francia for the weekend so we three crashed at their place and lived in the Santutxu district of Bilbao for a few nights.

After dancing the first night away with another old friend, Borja, and showing the girls the nightlife in Bilbao, we headed home as the sun rose, and slept soundly the rest of the afternoon. The rest of the weekend consisted of eating pintxos (i.e. mini individual food dishes... tiny sandwiches, finger foods, etc.) and drinking sidra (a delicious appley beer drink that is a Basque speciality). We made stops in the Casco Viejo (old town), Guggenheim, and along Gran Vía (the main strip). Along the Gran Vía, we saw the amazing Christmas display for Corte Inglés (i.e. the Target of España). "Cortylandia" had displays of a Basque Belen (Nativity scene). I learned from the scene that Jesus, contrary to popular belief, was actually Basque... along with the three kings. Basque dancers rejoiced as baby Jesus was born! Who knew!

In the following días, we headed north along the coast (where I used to live) and visited the Puerto Viejo (old port) as well as the Puente Colgante. We met up with friend Jill (from good ole Bakersfield) and on Saturday, we all headed to Donosti (a.k.a. San Sebastián). AKA Capitol of Pintxos! We ate pintxos increíbles all day. We met nice bartenders and waiters that all served us delicious servings of croquetas, tortilla de patata, bolas de carne, pintxos morunos, cangrejo, etc. At the end of the night, stuffed with all sorts of food, we made our last stop before headed to the bus. The last stop presented us with a group of male bartenders, handed free copas de sidra and, even better, free pintxos. However... one bartender sneakily told us that his favorite pintxo was this white-pinkish colored round, soft piece of something and that we HAD to try it! So, of course, Jill and I (although our palates are typically pretty picky) tasted the delicious little morsel. Come to find out... what we had just swallowed and been convinced to try was LAMB BRAIN! Celebro de cordero! Ahhh! Needless to say, didn't vomit, but felt I could have...

Pues, eso, spent the whole weekend pigging out on Basque favorites and showing off all the beauty of el País Vasco. GORA EUSKADI!

the gran 23

2007-11-19T10:26:00.000+01:00

I've had the placer of celebrating two cumpleaños in Spain. Two years ago, I celebrated the big TWENTY-ONE in northern Spain with a huge group of friends, and last weekend, we celebrating similarly. As my amigas here learned, birthdays are all about extending into the longest weekend/week possible... And so we did.

Thursday night, a group of us went out dancing after having a delicious lasagna-a-la-Beth en casa. We made our metro ride (after a few incriminating videos) toward Goya, a posh neighborhood with a discoteca that our friend Aaron was at. The club, Ego, was a couple floors with music both up and downstairs, full of gente dancing and having a good time. When the clock hit 3:30 a.m., we decided to make our way back home...

Friday night was a little more relaxing as Markel, Cassie, Laura, and I hit the cine instead of the bars. We decided a film would be a bit more fitting. So, we watched Death at a Funeral, a new British film. LOVED it. Super funny with random scenes throughout. Afterwards, we hit up the churrería for chocolate and churros.

Then arrived Saturday evening. My friend, Célia, had just celebrated her cumple on the previous Wednesday, so we went to a house party at her apartment. Everyone brought delicious dinners and appetizers. We brought some pizzas, there was hummus, fruit, bread tapas, and more. One peruvian guy helped Célia make a drink called pisco which was also one I'd like to try again. After mingling with the various people from around the world (Morocco, France, USA, Peru, Spain), Markel, Cassie, and I made our way to a chic Middle Eastern-esque bar full of beautiful decor, sofas, soft lighting, and amazing cócteles.

Since three nights we had hung out in the city center until the wee hours, Markel and I took a relazing Sunday and continued the celebration on my actual birthday - Monday, November 12th. Markel spoiled me rotten with lots of gifts and attention. I opened regalos... He gave me slippers, a dress, a jacket, a book, a mind-puzzler game, flowers, and even bought me a cake!! We took a walk to a local park. We sat and ate delicious Turkish kebabs while enjoying the scenery. After walking around a bit, we headed home to cut the cake and enjoy its chocolately goodness. Later that evening, we met with friends in La Mordida, a Mexican restaurant in Chueca. AMAZING. We ate great food, shared fun conversation, and for dessert, they sang to me. Overall, a fabulous way to end such a marvelous weekend...

they sang to me!

i heart puentes en bilbao

2007-11-10T16:10:00.000+01:00

puente m
1 bridge
puente levadizo, lifting bridge
(de un castillo) drawbridge
2 Av puente aéreo, shuttle service
3 (en un barco) puente de mando, bridge
4 (entre dos fiestas) long weekend ♦ LOC: tender un puente, to build bridges
courtesy of wordreference.com

Note #4. Long weekends in Spain are amazing. It's already amazing that my work week has changed to three days a week (Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday), but the opportunity to travel back to la patria - Bilbao - is always enjoyable.

Markel and I made our way al norte last weekend for a quick getaway. It was an opportunity to visit Markel's familia (who he hadn't seen for two months and I hadn't for over a year!), see Leslie and Lewis' new place, and visit some friends.

Since it was a puente for the whole country, everyone in Madrid escaped Thursday morning just as we did. Instead of taking the normal 30 minutes up the carretera to get where I work, it took almost two hours! However, once we drove past the Sierra de Guadarrama, I took the wheel for a whole 60 kilometers! Then we were really moving... haha.

Upon entering the País Vasco where the welcome sign says Ongi etorri Euskadi, I immediately began playing the local radio station (since Markel and I both forgot all CDs) which had all the latest hits in euskera (i.e. Basque). Despite the fact I can only count to seven in Basque, being surrounded by what was once my home, I was anxious and excited!

During the weekend, Markel and I did a bit of paradas at my local favorites: Bar Arantzale, Puerto Viejo, el molino, el mar, etc. We also visited Markel's friends (one of whom just had the most adorable baby boy José David!), went to the Sopelana bar scene with a large group, and ate comida with both Markel's aita (dad) and common-law stepmom (de hecho) as well as Markel's ama (mamá). Our friend, Jill, also moved back to Spain (living in Barakaldo, a small city near Bilbao) to teach English, so we met with her as well.

Les and Lew had us over to their nueva casa in Bilbao which is superfashion and modern (looks like a page straight out of the IKEA magazine!). They cooked us lasaña superrica. On Saturday during la mañana, they joined Markel and I and we all drove a Frantzia to tour la ciudad Baiona. Bayonne is a French city with cute shops full of chocolate, cheese, and wine. We ate a chuleta of steak and delicious cheese. There is a río that runs through the city and a cathedral standing tall in the centro. Markel and I brought back some chocolate and cheese for nuestro piso.

On Sunday evening, we hit the road back for Madrid. The viaje filled me with memories and recuerdos of the times I spent there two years ago, when I met Markeltxo, and living with Gema and Marian. I remembered my classes at UPV and befriending a Kiwi who became one of my closest amigas. Euskadi, el País Vasco was a great home. As I headed back to Madrid with Markel and our friend Javi, I realized that now Madrid is becoming that home for me, while Euskadi will always hold a special place in mi corazón.

halloween al estilo español

2007-11-07T19:08:00.000+01:00

Halloween Spanish-style brought many smiles and laughter and oooooooooo's and aaaaaahhhhh's to the little children's faces.

Leading up to Halloween day, Adela and I taught "In the Graveyard" (a song I found online to the tune of "Oh My Darling," but talked about Frankenstein). The kids loved it and made motions for all the words. Super mega chulo.

(Markel and I put Jack outside on our terrace for all to enjoy)

And then the Black Cat arrived on Halloween Day. La Gatita Negra. That was my costume. After seeing a powerpoint presentation Adela had made for the kids and singing the song, we did two activities with the kids. One group stayed with Adela. She taught them Halloween words like vampire, graveyard, haunted house, pumpkin, ghost, witch, etc. Using some cards I made, they played a Halloween memory card game. The other half of the class came with me and we carved a pumpkin. With half, we chose the shapes of the eyes, nose, and mouth and carved the top. Each child had an opportunity to put some seeds and gunk out of the inside. Muy gracioso, let me tell you. "¡Qué mal huele!" "Eeewwww.... ¿puedo ir al baño y lavar las manos?" (It smells so bad! Can I wash my hands?) The next half of the class had the opportunity to cut and push out the eyes. They also pulled out seeds and gunk. In just an hour and half, the boring pumpkins transformed into jack-o-lanterns.

(note that even my kids know the meaning of PAZ.PEACE)

wilkommen to tübingen

2007-10-26T18:58:00.000+02:00

On Thursday, October 18th, I came home from work only to shove my clothes in a maleta and be on my way to the aeropuerto.

Boarded the Germanwings plane and two hours later, I landed in Stuttgart, Germany. After rehearsing Deutsche phrases in my head (gut, danke, nein, ja, ich komme aus California, etc.), I disembarked into an unfamiliar airport with people who looked surprising (or maybe not too surprisingly) more like me than Spaniards. My first realization... the stewardesses said "Hallo" and "Tschüs" to me and to the clearly-Spanish couple behind me "Hola" and "Hasta luego." So, I think that means I look more German than española... not all that amazing.

So, after esperando en the airport for a few minutos, I saw two very familiar faces! Ángel and Viktor, two friends who studied in Chico last year, approached me with big smiles and warm hugs! Raúl waited for us in his car outside. After our drive back to Tübingen, I got settled in (which Raúl and Ángel both live in dormitory housing). Shortly after, we headed out to a party at a local bar called The Zoo. Of course, in Chico, the boys all lived at The Zoo (a housing complex in Chico) which I got a good laugh out of. Much to my pleasant surprise, I saw SO MANY of the former exchange students in Chico! Maryam, Marco, Martin, Armin. All there. It was great! Somehow I spent over an hour talking to some German guy (named Julien) who didn't speak English or Spanish... and I think we can all guess how well my German is coming along... But, regardless, my friends and I took loads of fotos and caught up with each other in between dancing and laughing.

The next día, I toured Tübingen with Armin, Raúl, and Ángel. First stop: Turkish kebabs. :) Next, we walked through the small, quaint calles toward the main square, the Castle, the Church. I got great views of the city. Armin showed me two local buildings where Nazis had planned some of their activities during World War II. Ángel and Raúl also pointed out the building I would have studied Spanish in had I studied in Tübingen. Later that evening, after Ángel and I ate a delicious spaghetti dinner in his kitchen, we met up with Mira (Raúl's girlfriend), Raúl, Juan (otro chico from the Canary Islands who studies in Tübingen), and Melissa (a Chico Stater studying in Tübingen!). The plan for the night had been to go to Kuck Kuck. We headed outside in the 5ºC weather (i.e. SUPER cold!), and I debated heading back for my scarf. About 200 footsteps later, we were at the door of Kuck Kuck. I forgot that in other places, there are bars on campus. Seems like such an odd concept... I couldn't get over it. We danced the night away to loads of Spanish music (which I am still confused about WHY at this random German bar they played so much Spanish music!). One guy I met from Turkey had been dying to show his Swing dancing moves, so when a Shakira song empezó, he grabbed my hand and we tore up the dance floor. One broken hair clip and a little dizziness later, el bar began to close and we headed to a friend's casa where I met more people. After a long, tiring night, we headed back to hit the hay.

On Saturday mañana, Raúl and Mira met Ángel and I in the dorms and we headed out to lunch at a local Chinese restaurant. Directly after my Gung Pao, the four of us drove to Stuttgart to tour the sights and have a warm Kaffee. (Again, I repeat, SUPER cold in Germany) The city was a pretty cool city, with lots of people walking about, and much historia that I still know little about. For the evening, we all headed back to Tübingen. Ángel and I met up with some other Spanish exchange students for some dancing in an Erasmus fiesta. (Erasmus is a Europen exchange program) Carlos, a marileño, taught me some salsa moves. Afterwards, we had a nightcap in the Kuck Kuck and headed back to the dorms relatively early (i.e. 4 a.m.).

Sunday was a much more relaxing day (as it should be!) where Mira, Raúl, Ángel, and I made lunch together in Mira's apartment. The food was absolutely delicious! Mira made a great potato dish with a beautiful salad, and I made a pesto chicken to go alongside. After dining exquisitely, we headed to Juan's and watch the FORMULA 1 last race of the season!!!! GO FERNANDO ALONSO!! For all you who don't know Formula 1, it is the world's equivalent to Nascar. The drivers come from all over... Japan, Brazil, Italy, Finland, etc. But, of course, none from the USA. We've got our Nascar. Sadly, the young Spanish driver from Asturias, Fernando Alonso took 3rd to the two Ferrari drivers. In the evening, with other friends including Juan and his girlfriend, Amanda, and Florian and Chris (who I met in the States as well), we all went bowling. Needless to say, bowling isn't my sport. However, it's not Chris' sport either so while he took 8th (last) with 50, I took 5th with 80. I still should learn to break 100...

My last day in Germany I spent wandering the streets of the city center with Maryam and Ángel. I've been inspired to continue learning German (i.e. need to find some German classes pronto) and perhaps one day spend a year or so living in Germany so that I can truly speak at least three or more languages in my lifetime. For now, I have mastered the words I do know... das ist schön and nein danke.

first semana on the trabajo

2007-10-11T15:17:00.000+02:00

I have finally began working in la escuela! It's been an adventure, to say the least. Although I have previously worked in Spanish (ahem... BASQUE) schools, I have already experienced a world of differences and similarities between the Spanish and American school system.

Vale, the basics of where I work... I work at a preschool/elementary school called El colegio bilingüe de la Virgen de Navalazarza. The school is located in San Agustín de Guadalix (on the right, you can see some links to the city and school). S. Agustín is a pueblo about 30 minutes al norte de Madrid by bus. To get to the bus station, it takes about 35 minutes by metro from mi casa. However, just as people say, Spaniards have a tendency to make life inconvenient, so the journey can take anywhere between 65 and 95 minutos. If I'm lucky, I catch the Madrid Expres bus which makes the trip shorter.

The school, the faculty, and the students are increíbles. My tutora (cooperating teacher) for the first trimester is Adela. She is the profesora for two groups of 2nd grade students (ages 7 and 8). She's great to work with, although our teaching styles are quite different. We get along great and share many laughs and experiences in the classroom. Adela is one of many English teachers at Nava (which I nicknamed my school... the real name is way too long!). Each English teacher has another teacher, Rosa, who teaches the same two groups of children (but in Spanish). The children learn similar content, but in both Spanish and English (thus... a bilingual school). For example, in the mornings before recess, Rosa will have 2ºD (2nd grade, track D) and Adela 2ºB. After recess, the two groups switch teachers.

******************************************************************
A typical school day for children is:
9:00 Inglés (English!)
10:00 Art OR Science (depending on the day)
11:00 Ethics OR Religion (depending on what Mom & Dad want their kid to learn)
11:45 Recess (for me, this means grabbing coffee and cookies down in the teacher room)
12:15 Castellano (Spanish!)
13:15 Art OR Science (depending on the day)
14:00 Lunch/School's Out (at home or at school)
*******************************************************************

My schedule varies día-to-día, but basically I work Monday through Thursday from 9:00 to 13:15. However, Mondays I come in at 10:00, Tuesdays I leave at 14:00, and Thursdays I stay till 16:00 (teaching teachers inglés).Bueno, like I said, there are both similarities and differences between Spanish and American schools. The experiencias that I have gained in only one week have already given me some interesting stories to retell.

Okay, on day two, children were learning parts of the body (in inglés). So, as I corrected an assignment, I listened the teacher... Head, nose, arms, legs, etc. Then I hear "Now what do GIRLS have?" Of course, I look up to see what she referring to. (I'm thinking... chest? privates? what?) She covers her crotch and asks me, "How do you say it? V.. v.." I didn't know how to respond. I kept thinking, I don't want to say the wrong thing and have it be entirely inappropriate. So, I just said what I assumed she was talking about. "Vagina?" She nodded and said, "Well, yes, but the other word. Vulva? Is it vulva?" I just nodded uncomfortably and said, "Well, yeah, you said it right." Shortly after, she stuck her finger out and said to the class, "And what do boys have?" And most surprisingly, in a room full of 7 and 8 year olds, I think I was the only one in the room wanting to laugh...

10 reasons i love españa

2007-10-02T19:52:00.000+02:00

1. Spanish mullets, dreds, and mohawks.

2. Nothing is open on Sundays.

3. It's normal to arrive late.

4. The 80's is never out of style.

5. Queen, David Hasselhoff, and Arnold Schwartzenger are idolized.

6. I don't need a car. Public transportation is amazing.

7. People learn other languages.

8. Bershka, H&M, Zara, & Strativarius.

9. Kalimotxos, pikas/claras, sangría, coffee, soda, and water can all be ordered in any bar.

10. Markeltxo.

la noche en blanco

2007-09-30T18:02:00.000+02:00

la fusión total entre
creatividad y ciudad, entre arte y público

The mayor and the city of Madrid celebrated and hosted one of Europe's "Awake All Night" events. Throughout Europa in cities like Rome, Riga, Brussels and Paris as well as in Madrid, arte de todas formas fused with the nightlife of la ciudad to create a beautiful, creative celebration.

On el 22 de septiembre, local and travelling artists filled the streets, the galleries, and the neighorhoods to display their paintings, arquitectura, sculptures, teatro, and any other creative masterpieces they've developed. All of the museos and galerías were open to the public, free of entry. Over a million people flooded the streets to meet with friends and enjoy the art-filled city center.

After a copa and waiting in a long line while it sprinkled, Markel and I visited the Museo Reina Sofía. In this museum, we saw contemporary masterpieces by Salvador Dalí, Pablo Picasso, Joan Miró, and Juan Gris. Among my favorites are always Dalí's melting clocks and Picasso's famous Gernika (that honors the bombs Hitler dropped on a small Basque village).

Following our museum tour, our next stop was to taste the amazing sabor of Sesamo's sangría. Our American friend Taff and his amigo Iñigo awaited us there, later joined Roberto and Dane. After reading the quotes on the underground bar's walls, we headed out to los barrios of Tribunal, Fuencarral y Bilbao. The streets were llena de gente! Bars packed with people of all ages listened to music of all types.

Once the clock struck four, Markel and I made our way to the Plaza de Cibeles where the Búho (owl) aútobus picks us up to take us home. Much to our pleasure, as we waited, we saw a light show against the Post Office building. Streams of lettered and numbered lights danced along el edificio, and later colored lights created a beautiful arco iris (rainbow) across the front (see above). As we boarded our bus and traveled down Alcalá, we left the artistic city center and la Noche en blanco... until next year!

settling in

2007-09-29T21:19:00.000+02:00

Although time is creeping by since the job has yet to begin, I have made myself quite busy. Not only have I been meeting random auxiliares in the same program as me, I have visited my school a few times and explored new barrios in Madrid. I've got new photos up of the Noche en Blanco and a few nights we've gone out in the Lavapiés and Sol area (downtown). Look forward to a few posts to come...

new fotos

2007-09-21T13:39:00.001+02:00

so check them out.... on the right, there's a link to MY PHOTOS.

a little play & playa

2007-09-20T15:33:00.000+02:00

Within a few days of arriving, Markel and I escaped the city for sunshine, sand, and fun!

Santa Pola, a small town on la costa mediterránea near Alicante, became our destination where Markel's abuela loaned us her bungalow for a quick seaside getaway. On Thursday evening after Markel met with a university he was trying to get in to (which he did...), we headed out in his little coche and drove four hours to the beach. Upon arrival, hungry and tired, we ate patatas and a bocadillo at a small Basque bar called Txakoly.

During our stay, we ate pescado (Fish! Eek! It's true), calamari, and prawns. Markel has broadened my eating horizons by making comida that he knows I don't like... At first, always a scary experiencia for me, but of course, it always turns out okay. We watched a partido de fútbol between Athletic Club of Bilbao and Zaragoza which ended up in an empate (tie). Friday evening we watched Os declaro marido y marido (the new movie with Adam Sandler and Kevin James). On Saturday morning, we strolled through a big flea market where the only thing we walked away with was a new pañuelo (head scarf) for me. We spent hours on the beach, tomando el sol and splashing in the warm Mediterranean sea. Late on Saturday we even took a barco to a nearby island called Tabarca. On the boat ride there, Markel and I were cooled off with the giant splashes of water that soared over us as we hit waves. After arriving soaked, we found a spot on the beach and swam until I thought I saw a medusa (jelly fish). Markel didn't believe me until while sitting on the beach drying off, we heard three kids also claiming to have seen one. Later we explored the tiny isla for a few hours and headed back.

On Sunday afternoon, Markel and I hopped back in his tiny coche, grabbed some Turkish kebabs for the road, and made our trek home. Roadtrips in España are just so different... In the four short hours, we saw over five castles off the side of the highway and paid to use a few of the highways. That just doesn't seem to happen in California...

madrid: la llegada · the arrival

2007-09-10T14:07:00.000+02:00

He llegado! I made it to Madrid, España yesterday at 8:20 a.m. After being patted down and searched by SF security officials, Leslie, Lewis, and I began our trek to España. After 4 horas y pico we arrived in Chicago for a cuatro hora layover. I met some Catalanes from Barcelona who were very nice (they spotted my Spanish Studies pin that says "También hablo inglés" that began the conversación). At 4:45 p.m. Chicago time, we boarded the plane for Madrid. Although Leslie and Lewis ended up in seats muy lejos de mi, I got to sit next to a guy from Wisconsin who was headed to Roma. We shared some great conversación about the places we'd been and people we'd met.

After a late departure, ocho horas en avión, a wait at the aduana (customs), an impatient wait for baggage, and exchanging dinero, we made it past the gates and exited... and who was waiting impatiently with a giant sonrisa (smile) for me?! Pues, Markel of course. We had a great reunion and todos made our way to the metro. By metro, it took almost an hour to get to our piso (apartment) in la Ciudad Lineal. I LOVE MI PISO! It's super cute. Below are some fotos of mi barrio (district), my street (calle Bormonia), and el piso itself. Enjoy!

Overall, the day and a half here has been amazing. I visited Markel and my friend Taff who is studying here from Chico. He is super majo and we went out last night near Sol, the center of Madrid. Tonight we will meet a friend of Markel's from Bilbao and mañana our friend Diego and quizá una chica in my program will be coming for dinner. Miss you all very much, but know that I am safe and well here in Madrid!!!!!

por fin

2007-09-05T08:07:00.000+02:00

I finally got my visa! Ya ha llegado a las 10 de la mañana on Saturday.

Booked a flight with mi amiga Leslie and su novio Lewis who are both moving to Madrid también. Vamos desde San Francisco hasta Chicago y después we'll arrive in Madrid. I'm really excited that finally mi aventura begins...

patiently esperando...

2007-08-24T22:39:00.000+02:00

The joy of going abroad for so long is the muy emocionante process of obtaining a visa.

Solicité for mi visado el día 26 de julio. It's just short of one month later and my visa is still in the Spanish Consulado in San Francisco. No puedo hacer nada... except wait here patiently for the day that my visa arrives with my passport in its $16 Express Mail envelope.

Aquí estoy en Chico. Ya vengo nene. I'll be there soon.

viva méxico

2007-08-11T23:41:00.000+02:00

Acabo de regresar de México, a country just to the south - but one that seemed so distant and far away until this past week. Traveling with two amigos from SELAC (la Sociedad Estudiantil de Literatura, Arte y Cultura) and un profesor, we made our way to Ensenada en Baja California. We stayed with Gerardo's primos, his cousins who still live in the town where he was raised. I've never been to México, but to ride ATVs on the beach in San Felipe when I was younger and to dance the night away in Rosarito over Spring Break. This experience surpassed both, full of memories, people increíble, buena comida and an enriched grasp of español and la cultura mexicana.

Pasando el tiempo was easy, as Juan Carlos led us in his microbus around town the majority of the week. Upon our arrival at 8:00 a.m. (after a pretty long drive), we grabbed some fish tacos and then headed to the tianguis (outside market) to browse local goods. We stopped by el ahumador pacífico for smoked tuna and then headed to the beach! After playing on the playa y en el mar, we ate our tuna with crackers and hot salsa. Later in the afternoon, we headed to la Bufadora, with water that crashes against a cliff and sprays up like a geyser. Compramos algunas cosillas for gifts for ourselves and relatives. I got some great shoes and a gift for mi novio y mi hermana.

In the next few days, we toured two museums - a converted cárcel (jail) that shared history of Baja California and another (recently built) that held Muñoz Acosta and Siquieros masterpieces. Later we explored the port by boat, passing a lobo marino (sea lion) sunbathing on a boat as well as more lobo marinos sleeping on a half-sunken ship. After a night of dancing and drinking at Mango Mango, we woke up to play fútbol with Juan Carlitos (the 10-year old son) and Karla (the 17-year old daughter). Walking through the Parque de la Revolución and along the malecón filled our day and night before enjoying a classical music concierto with tres tenores and an orquestra. We strolled in front of the Riviera at an indigenous market, full of goods made by indigenous people from Baja all the way down to la Argentina. I bought a beautiful scarf and tiny finger puppets to add to my collection. Another highlight included camping in las aguas termales where there are natural hot spring pools and a place to camp. I cooked the steak for dinner while Hilary and Gerardo unshelled the choros (a type of mollusk that we had found along the beach in Rancho Mireles!). That was a true Mexican camping experience, complete with tortillas and beans grilled on the BBQ. Later we also enjoyed la playa again as well as explored more areas of the town, stopping at numerous taquerías for tacos de adobada, tacos de carne asada or the newfound thrill - un quesataco!

Overall, an amazing experience... Sharing traditional foods (mole, tacos, pescado, camarones) and drinks (Tecate, Jarritos, Sol, Dos XX, aguas frescas and - of course - tequila) was so delicious and memorable! We sang, danced, talked about family, spoke about the language and people, and got a small taste of life in a different place with different ways of doing things... It reminds me of the beauty in humanity, the similarities we share, and the unique differences we can discover.

Finishing touches in Chico

2007-07-16T17:19:00.000+02:00

As I gear up to leave Chico (more emotionally that physically since still one month remains...), I have been bastante ocupada. This upcoming week is my final one, after six years, of working as a Youth Nexus coordinator with amazing high school students. This group has been especially amazing and I will miss them dearly. Uno de los proyectos that is most memorable for this group is el mural that we did in Downtown Chico. This summer, with the help of PG&E and local artist Gregg Payne, Youth Nexus painted a "Peaces of Chico" mural to represent the diversity and natural elements that exist within Chico to create one larger piece.

It is a bittersweet ending... as I leave a group of students who have made a significant impact of what I am choosing to do as a career, but move on to new adventures abroad. Hasta luego Youth Nexus, HELLO SPAIN! :)

Publication

2007-07-08T08:46:00.000+02:00

Ins & Outs Magazine based out of Long Island City, New York, published some photos of mine along with captions that I wrote! A friend of mine writes freelance for the magazine and contacted me when they were searching for photos on a piece for Spain.

text & images by Beth Carmichael

¿Quién sabía que yo tenía este talento? I was so excited to share the belleza of the País Vasco con todo el mundo... All of the world should share its story.

New Adventure

2007-06-01T20:22:00.000+02:00

Mi vida is beginning to change shape, mold, and follow the course that I choose for it.

In the midst of working muchas horas, packing up to move back to my parents' casa, graduating from la universidad (WOO HOO), a new amazing surprise has arrived to my e-mail inbox this Tuesday...

I got a job in Spain! I have been dreaming of returning, building on my español, spending time with amigos and el novio, exploring and knowing Madrid better, and continuing to experience life for all it is... And starting in Agosto, I will.

As I begin this blog, I intend to keep those outside of Madrid updated on the current happenings of my life. I will use it as my way to stay in touch with everyone and to remind myself of the good things in life - the part that keeps me motivated and passionate. This blog will officially become the log of my travels, my thoughts, my excitement, my relationships, my wild and crazy life... Enjoy the ride.